I thought exactly the same but to my surprise and pleasure its very nice stuff to roll!
Slow gold
Started by
Arthur Brown
, Apr 28 2009 08:01 PM
33 replies to this topic
#16
cooperman435
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Posted 13 March 2010 - 06:58 PM
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#17
AdmiralDonSnider
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 09:05 AM
I thought exactly the same but to my surprise and pleasure its very nice stuff to roll!
That´s good to hear. I´ve already had daydreams about those nice little titanium particles acting as cores for new stars.
#18
fruitfulsteve
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Posted 30 June 2010 - 12:23 PM
I note the 8"? slow gold in the video had quite a spread, H3 burst ? can anyone recomend a burst for a 6" i was thinking BP coated crispies or just straight 2fa and well primed stars.
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#19
Vic
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Posted 01 July 2010 - 09:59 PM
I would be very surprised if the burst was H3, you would be using chlorate burst with a sulphur mix star comp,I note the 8"? slow gold in the video had quite a spread, H3 burst ? can anyone recomend a burst for a 6" i was thinking BP coated crispies or just straight 2fa and well primed stars.
there is absolutely no need to use such an energetic burst on that size of shell.BP on rice hulls is fine,
also I would do the same for 6” as well and if you can paste your shells as well as Dean it's all you need for a 4”.
Your 2fa would be more appropriate for Maltese can shells where the stars are usually wedged tightly in place round the walls.
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#20
seymour
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Posted 16 July 2010 - 05:28 AM
BP on puffed rice can burst 6" shells well, with Dean's 6" C6 shell in the 'canister shell' thread being the latest example.
Part of the reason behind brocade and willow shells having such a wide burst is the burn time of the stars. Because they burn for so long, they can continue to drift wider, even as they droop.
Though, yes, they often are burst harder than normal. I personally have the (perhaps bad) habit of boosting shells. I found 6g flash to give 6" brocade shells a nice burst. Usually I add 2g flash.
Another option that is very commonly used in industry, but not discussed as much as it should in our circles, is the use of hybrid BP/ Potassium perchlorate type compositions.
Shimizu's KP burst might be a good starting point. Simply mix that with BP in whatever ratio that you want, and coat that on the rice ulls.
As always, paste the shells up well.
Part of the reason behind brocade and willow shells having such a wide burst is the burn time of the stars. Because they burn for so long, they can continue to drift wider, even as they droop.
Though, yes, they often are burst harder than normal. I personally have the (perhaps bad) habit of boosting shells. I found 6g flash to give 6" brocade shells a nice burst. Usually I add 2g flash.
Another option that is very commonly used in industry, but not discussed as much as it should in our circles, is the use of hybrid BP/ Potassium perchlorate type compositions.
Shimizu's KP burst might be a good starting point. Simply mix that with BP in whatever ratio that you want, and coat that on the rice ulls.
As always, paste the shells up well.
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#21
Mumbles
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Posted 19 July 2010 - 01:45 AM
I find mixing BP and KP not to be neccesary. I simply part out the KNO3 and Perchlorate in the burst and screen. As a starting point a 50:50 mix works pretty well for large shells, 6" or 8" or so.
#22
portfire
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Posted 21 July 2010 - 08:42 PM
Has anyone tried boosting 5"+ shells with KP.ie. Using BP on crispies then KP on rice hulls?
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#23
BrightStar
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Posted 23 July 2010 - 11:57 AM
Has anyone tried boosting 5"+ shells with KP.ie. Using BP on crispies then KP on rice hulls?
I don't think KP on hulls would be powerful enough to use as a booster in the traditional sense. For a 4 - 6" shell you could be using entirely KP on hulls as the break. KP is often said to have approx. double the power of BP.
Due to it's pressure response curve, KP is kind of a 'dial a yield' burst. The number of layers of pasting varies the strength of the break much more than with plain old BP. It does need good confinement to perform.
A few teaspoons of hot whistle mix though will work wonders with BP bursts in this size range...
Edited by BrightStar, 23 July 2010 - 12:33 PM.
#24
portfire
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Posted 23 July 2010 - 01:23 PM
I do agree, I just wondered if it is possible to get the spike in pressure with a well pasted shell. How does KP and whistle differ in their pressure curve? I'm guessing whistle has a much higher one
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#25
megabusa
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Posted 17 October 2011 - 11:51 AM
Just re-reading this original topic as I tested a 2" shell with Slow Gold at the weekend.
Stars were 9mm cut, primed with BP / Si & were fantastic !!!
At the break they looked almost like Tiger Tail for about 2 seconds, then when the Ti caught brightspots started to appear & the whole break turned to a bright white brocade effect.
The particles kept burning for about 15 - 20 seconds giving an impressive hang time.
The kids agreed it was the best effect yet !!!
Cheers,
Phil.
Stars were 9mm cut, primed with BP / Si & were fantastic !!!
At the break they looked almost like Tiger Tail for about 2 seconds, then when the Ti caught brightspots started to appear & the whole break turned to a bright white brocade effect.
The particles kept burning for about 15 - 20 seconds giving an impressive hang time.
The kids agreed it was the best effect yet !!!
Cheers,
Phil.
#26
Tinderbox
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Posted 19 April 2017 - 10:28 PM
An old topic but I thought I would offer my results in trying this formula out with lumpwood bbq charcoal. Most likely a mix of all sorts of wood.
I ground the charcoal up in a bullet blender until a mix of airfloat to 40#.
Didn't ball mill anything together. Just screen mixed.
Stars were 20mm x 20mm pumped and primed. Dried for 4 days.
On current tests from a gun, I am not getting the desired results. Sparse gold sparks and a smattering of Ti sparks. The star doesn't shed much and travels mostly intact as a glowing orb. It bursts upon hitting the ground or through tree limbs as do the smaller sparks from the tail.
This is most likely of no surprise owing to the use of bbq coal and the lack of proper airfloat. Should I have ball milled this stuff without Ti and coarse coal?
Waiting on some pine. I have willow airfloat but I didn't want to use this.
Any comments welcome. Sure is a wonderful effect....when/if I get it right.
I ground the charcoal up in a bullet blender until a mix of airfloat to 40#.
Didn't ball mill anything together. Just screen mixed.
Stars were 20mm x 20mm pumped and primed. Dried for 4 days.
On current tests from a gun, I am not getting the desired results. Sparse gold sparks and a smattering of Ti sparks. The star doesn't shed much and travels mostly intact as a glowing orb. It bursts upon hitting the ground or through tree limbs as do the smaller sparks from the tail.
This is most likely of no surprise owing to the use of bbq coal and the lack of proper airfloat. Should I have ball milled this stuff without Ti and coarse coal?
Waiting on some pine. I have willow airfloat but I didn't want to use this.
Any comments welcome. Sure is a wonderful effect....when/if I get it right.
#27
cooperman435
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Posted 20 April 2017 - 11:28 AM
Mine were made using pine for the spark bonus and I'd suspect that with the seriously degraded burn rate from the BBQ stuff that a lot of the ti may remain un ignited
I can't remember my exact procedure but I'm sure there was ball milling, you need a reasonably quick burning composition to throw out the ti and as a fine power it becomes ingrained into the ti aiding its ignition further
I can't remember my exact procedure but I'm sure there was ball milling, you need a reasonably quick burning composition to throw out the ti and as a fine power it becomes ingrained into the ti aiding its ignition further
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#28
Tinderbox
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Posted 20 April 2017 - 05:39 PM
Cheers! Your pine charcoal came today so guess what I'm doing tonight. Yeah baby.
#29
cooperman435
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Posted 21 April 2017 - 12:36 AM
Hahaha it's the good stuff too! I think you got a bit extra as the bag was so close I thought it was easier to box up as it was :-)
Ive tried to find any videos but I think they went an age ago with an old pc dying
Ive tried to find any videos but I think they went an age ago with an old pc dying
I do not intend to tiptoe through life just to arrive at deaths door safely!
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#30
starseeker
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Posted 22 April 2017 - 06:23 PM
You beat me to it Ken ,
These are a slow drying star so need a long drying time, if i remember rightly when testing from a star gun they need a fast launch to get to see the full effect ,
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