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visual e-match performance test


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#16 Pretty green flames

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Posted 01 January 2005 - 02:25 PM

I don't want to start another thread about e-match so here goes

I tried lighting some maroons using a comercial e-match.

I stuck the e-match in the maroon, conected the wires and conected the cable to a 9 volt batterie.

It didn't ignite.
Is there something wrong with what i did.

I used a 5 meter double-core cable and a 9 volt batterie to ignite


Anything seroiusly wrong here.

#17 cat

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Posted 01 January 2005 - 02:47 PM

I don't want to start another thread about e-match so here goes

I tried lighting some maroons using a comercial e-match.

I stuck the e-match in the maroon, conected the wires and conected the cable to a 9 volt batterie.

It didn't ignite.
Is there something wrong with what i did.

I used a 5 meter double-core cable and a 9 volt batterie to ignite
Anything seroiusly wrong here.

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Sorry, not enough information. What kind of e-match? You know the amps required? Was the battery dead? Did the match burn? Perhaps you broke the filament while inserting? I don?t deal with maroons or salutes however, if it was constructed with BP, Flash, or other easily ignitable powder even a piece if nichrome should be more then enough to light the mixture. I?m not familiar with the term double-core cable but 5 meters of even 26 gauge shouldn?t provide much resistance.

#18 Pretty green flames

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Posted 01 January 2005 - 03:45 PM

http://www.angelfire...h/ematches.html

Look at the picture at the bottom of the page.
This is the E-match that i used.

Don't know the amps but the storesales lady said a 4.5 volt batterie should easily ignite it

#19 cat

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Posted 02 January 2005 - 02:08 AM

http://www.angelfire...h/ematches.html

Look at the picture at the bottom of the page.
This is the E-match that i used.

Don't know the amps but the storesales lady said a 4.5 volt batterie should easily ignite it

View Post


Hmm, Well first off I?m a VERY tired so if I miss something just ask. Second, man that?s a really bad how-to! Did you buy this pre made (guessing from ?storesales lady?) if you did any chance she knows the gauge of the nichrome? This is very significant actually, you need a balance between your wire, formula and your battery.

This formula is quite a bit of over kill for what you?re trying to do, a good meal powder or even ball-milled green-meal would more then do. If you?re using a 9volt I would strongly suggest 38gauge nichrome. Although the suggested application will work.. IMHO it?s the wrong way. Thin your NC to about 7-10% by adding additional acetone. Mix the thinned NC into your meal powder until you have a slightly thing paint mixture (around 1ml per gram of bp), then just dip you igniters (forget the sanding and priming, that?s nonsense).

As far as I can tell the wires are not soldered in the how-to, now that?s ok, but with out some special treating the resistance will go up during storage as corrosion forms, is this was an old match, that could be adding to your problem. Now remember 4.5volts (three AA) is not 9volts, if you compare the current you can pull from 3 AAs and 1 9volt you?ll see a short of the AAs pulls more amps.

I?m sure I?m missing something, but I need rest..

#20 Kembang Api

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Posted 02 January 2005 - 03:43 PM

yes, I believe that the water or the alcohol is just a media for the purpose of storing, as we know when it is dry it is flamable. As acetone will dissolved the NC. so I think the contain of the NC is only water and cellulose nitrate (25 - 35% water and 65 - 75% cellulose nitrate) That all I can tell you.
I will try to work on it and hope to be useful.

#21 cat

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Posted 13 February 2005 - 02:51 PM

Well to put this thread back on topic for a second. I?m surprised there haven?t been any suggestions maybe I should open it up to electrical and analytical tests as well.

------------

Inspired by a batch if Dragon eggs that went horribly wrong (long story) I ended up with masses of Mg/Al clumped into big lumps each about 1/2" squared. When clamped over a Bunsen burner burning MAP it took about 62 seconds to ignite when it did it was quite impressive with a distinctive crackle and sustained bright flash.

-------------

The material formed into a micro hollow core grain is the perfect test bed for simulating worst case conditions for engine ignition. Unlike some other formulas ignition is unmistakable and self-sustaining. Additional tests show that even molten slag (or reaction dross product) doesn't seam to effect or induce accidental ignition unless the grains are closer then 6?.

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I can not fathom a propellant that would requite this kind of ignition; however the test stands as worst case scenario.

The commercial igniters and igniter dips tested only pyromag was able to ignite this material, and it was not re-creatable. Several slag producing thermite mixes produced delayed, but consistent ignition. New formulas are in the works.

-----------------

Test grain formula not included.
-cat

#22 r.burgy

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 09:21 PM

i found a formula for e matches somewhere and cant remember where.
it consisted of graphite, ping pong balls and acetone.if anyone knows the formula could you please let me know thanks

#23 fishy1

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 07:37 PM

i found a formula for e matches somewhere and cant remember where.
it consisted of graphite, ping pong balls and acetone.if anyone knows the formula could you please let me know thanks



here's the rough idea.

bridgeless e-matches.

dissolve ping pong balls (NC) in acetone. make a slurry with liquid and graphite powder. dip wires in it. dry.

#24 r.burgy

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 05:12 PM

thats the way i made it but it doesnt work. it just sparks on the battery.the graphite tip doesnt even get warm. i took two pieces of wire and soldered them together,then dipped it slurry. but like i said it doesnt work????

#25 fishy1

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 08:30 PM

thats the way i made it but it doesnt work. it just sparks on the battery.the graphite tip doesnt even get warm. i took two pieces of wire and soldered them together,then dipped it slurry. but like i said it doesnt work????


don't solder the wire together! that's basically a short circuit so nothing goes through the graphite. leave like a 2mm gap between the wire ends and dip it so the graphite bridges the gap.

Edited by fishy1, 16 May 2006 - 08:31 PM.


#26 adamw

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Posted 18 May 2006 - 07:36 PM

Dissolved PP balls + graphite? Seems like there is something missing there...
75 : 15: 10... Enough said!

#27 fishy1

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Posted 18 May 2006 - 08:13 PM

Dissolved PP balls + graphite? Seems like there is something missing there...


what? BP? wires?

#28 Mumbles

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Posted 22 May 2006 - 11:52 PM

A coating of BP, or some other pyrogen, on the outside of the graphite/NC layer is needed for reliable ignition.

#29 fishy1

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Posted 29 May 2006 - 12:45 PM

A coating of BP, or some other pyrogen, on the outside of the graphite/NC layer is needed for reliable ignition.

ah yeah, i forgot it, i use BP. i don't bind it with NC lacquer as appartently the acetone in the NC lacquer dissolves the NC binder in the NC/graphite and stops reliable ignition.

#30 The Swedish Scientist

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Posted 13 June 2006 - 08:12 PM

This is my bridgeless e-match composition:

http://www.vk2zay.ne...ition.php?id=34

I know you already have this, and I've posted it before, but I want to add some additiional information:


HEY!!! It isn't safe, it contains aluminium and magnesium, combining theese metals with sulphur, and they will get very angry... or at least rather sensitive to friction, as the sulphur will catalyse the metal's oxidation reaction. NEVER combine sulphur with metals if you want to be safe.
If you make it bulletproof they'll just make a bigger bullet.
If you make it waterproof they'll just make a deeper ocean.
If you make it foolproof... They'll just find 'emselves a redneck!




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