10 replies to this topic

[Pretty green flames]

In the near future i will be making some chlorate coloured stars. Now I have no desire to blow my fingers off so i'm seeking some safety advice.

I'll sum up what i already know, please tell me if i missed anything.

Chlorates should never come in contact with sulfer, sulfer compounds, ammonium compounds, copper compounds and fine metal powder (Mg, Mg/Al, Al...etc)

When mixing compositions containing chlorates the equipment used should never come in contact with the above mentioned. So you should have one different set of tools for chlorates and one for everything else.

Never ram or exert any ammount of excessive pressure on chlorate compositions.

As far as mixing compositions goes, is this basicly it?

What about loading chlorate stars into shells? I use only BP as a break charge, obviously this is a no-no as there is sulfur present in the mix. Would a sulfurless prime on the stars provide a suffiecient safety net to prevent accidental ignition?


How senstivie are mixes with chlorates that DO NOT contain any traces of sulfur? When packed in shells, do chlorate stars pose a serious threat when being transported to the firing site?

Mixes like Lancasters organic red stars which are pretty simple and have no visible incompatiblities, how sensitive are they. Could a small ammount of pressure by consolidating the stars in a canister shell make them go off?

Sorry for so many answrrs but i'd like to be safe when trying my hand at some chlorate stars.

Cheers and thanks for your help.

[Bonny]

There is quite a bit of info on here about working with chlorates.
If you are using chlorates it is best to use seperate tools if possible... I don't have seperate tools, but thoroughly clean mine before and after. I soak them for 1/2 to 1hr in a washtub full of hot water, then wash with dishsoap,rinse and air dry. Also if you have to use the same work area, CLEAN WELL before and after. I also lay out a layer of old newspaper on workbench before doing any mixing, chlorates or not.
Obviously make sure any sulfur and sulfur containing mixes are sealed and stored away from where you will be working...

For burst, I believe some people seperate the stars and burst (when using BP) with a layer of tissue paper and/or sulfurless prime on stars. I use H3 as burst (you can coat rice hulls or whatever) or granulate it. When I make shells I also put a drop of glue onto the exposed (visco) fuse end inside the shell to seperate the BP core from the burst and stars.

I don't think pressure from loading stars into shells is anything to worry about (unless you are really pounding them in...)

Hopefully that's a start.You will probably get some more tips from more experienced members soon.

[YT2095]

IIRC, a pinch of Boric acid in chlorate compounds helps with stability, also Never be around Red Phos (even safety match boxes).
Hydrocarbons are a bad idea too (like the use of petroleum jelly in Whistle mix) this makes not only an explosive compound, but it also reacts over time and becomes useless (and maybe unstable).

they also burn a little Cooler than Perchlorates too, so you may need to adjust your recipe accordingly.

[Pretty green flames]

Thanks, if anyone feels that there is something missing please do not hesitate and post it.

[Anders Greenman]

If you haven't got it yet, get a copy of Ofcas T.I.F vol. 10. It's great and will give you very good understanding of the nature of chlorates. It comes cheap too!
Very nice too have! A musth for those handling chlorates if you ask me.

[Pretty green flames]

Something interesting i came across while browsing rec.pyro. Hammer drop tests comparing Perc and Chlorate when mixed with Sulfur and Aluminium powder. I was rather suprised to learn that perchlorate and chlorate were basicly the same as far as impact sensitivity goes.

KClO4(80) + S(20) 39 Cm.
KClO3(90) + S(10) 40 Cm
Conclusion, sulfur sensitizes chlorates and perclorates almost identically.

KClO4(60) + Al(40) 94 Cm.
KClO3(75) + Al(25) 92 Cm
Conclusion, the sensitivity difference between chlorate and perchlorate flash is insignificant

H3 burst powder 25 Cm
Picric Acid 26 Cm
Conclusion, H3 is far more sensitive than most flash powders.

These tests were carried out by Dr. Shimizu so they are most likely a reliable source of information.

[Mumbles]

Boric acid only helps the nitrate/Al reaction. The chlorate bad times reaction is acid driven, producing ClO2, which is not a fan of anything organic. Thus why it is used to chlorinate drinking water killing all the bacteria and such in the process. A base will be a better buffer to prevent any sort of reaction.

[MDH]

Simply pretend you are using strike anywhere matches.

That's what I do...

Edited by MDH, 31 August 2007 - 08:54 PM.

[marble]

Wear some thick leather gloves and use some common sense

[Anders Greenman]

The most dangerous thing with chlorates and sulfur is the acid reaction producing ClO2. This is not critical with perclorates.
And gloves wont help you if you're making a 6" shell.. Common sense will though, and caution. That's the most important thing we have.

[YT2095]

Boric acid only helps the nitrate/Al reaction. The chlorate bad times reaction is acid driven, producing ClO2, which is not a fan of anything organic. Thus why it is used to chlorinate drinking water killing all the bacteria and such in the process. A base will be a better buffer to prevent any sort of reaction.

quite right, I Was mistaken in my memory it was indeed for Nitrate metal mixtures, Thanks for the correction.
the rest of my post stands however.