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Milling Media


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#106 BigG

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Posted 24 January 2004 - 08:52 PM

According to Lloyds, almost all of the grinding takes place between media pieces (meaning, when the particles are sandwich between two pieces of the media that rub against each other), and not in the area between the media and the wall. Also, the ?lift bars? are there to disturb the media and generate more media friction rather then drop and squash particles from a great height.

Using this, one can quickly see, that even two balls of lead are enough to generate grinding, but the amount of surface that you grind against is so small that it takes very long time. On the other end, too full of a jar (by either media or composition) and the balls cant more freely, again generating less friction. The ? jar full of media with ? of composition, seem like a good balance between the two ends.

#107 Lil_Guppy

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 04:13 AM

Copper tubing filled with lead....... Why did :huh:  that red star comp come out a Magenta color? Did'nt I read somewhere that Copper Chlorate was a real hum dinger.....I.E; Sensitive HE.....Don't mill Potassium Chlorate with it....I don't know the molecular possibilities, but I won't be finding out by accident

While I know that that is a possibility, would lead filled copper piping be ok (non-sparking etc) for use as media if they were only to be used with black powder compositions and certain star compositions (ie the ones without chlorates or perchlorates)?
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#108 Stuart

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 07:22 AM

I now mill my Black Powder together in one using lead filled copper pipe and have not had any problems. I think the chances of a spark are very small, just put your ball mill away from the house or in very strong box, like a ammo box lined with wood and steel.

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#109 Jerronimo

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 06:45 PM

You could also use brass piping, it won't hurt your chemicals as much.
But I wonder, will the copper/brass piping not split after some use?

I'm personaly thinking about using solid brass barstock pieces,bit expensive but they will allmost last forever.
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#110 Rhodri

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 07:15 PM

Good advice Stuart and good input Jerronimo.

I'm currently very interested in finding alteranate milling media. I've heard from some more learned members that brass rods work exceptionally well. I aim to investigate this as soon as I find a 'Brass Rod Tree'.

They do grow on trees - don't they? :unsure:

:)
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#111 Stuart

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 07:32 PM

There hasnt seemed to be any damage to my milling media. They should last longer than lead though as lead is softer. I have found that brass nuts are good to fill with lead it you want to be safe as far as sparks are concerned. The only trouble is they may be a bit expensive, mabye look at a plumbers merchant

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#112 Richard H

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 07:50 PM

I've just been cutting up 3 metre's of 1/2 " diam brass round bar, should make great milling media.....When I'm finished. :)

#113 The_Djinn

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 08:16 PM

Well if you pop it in the post richard, I will mail you to let you know how well it works :P

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#114 adamw

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 09:24 PM

Personally, I prefer chromed steel balls for milling chemicals -on their own!-. No wastage by the chemical being ingrained into the lead surface or 'greying' from the media. Lead balls obviously for any 'live' milling. I am also using brass rods which I find work well.
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#115 sasman

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 09:26 PM

I wish i had gone the brass media route :( .. After spending well over $100 buying bullet moulds + gas stove + gas bottle + antimony + $40 dollars for(failed) silcon mould!!..i have decided to use my 300 17mm lead balls for a while then move over to brass in the near future..My lead definately contaminates the chemicals its grinding..

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#116 adamw

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 09:55 PM

Silicon (ie sand) or Silicone (ie rubber)? Wouldnt that sort of, er, melt?!?

For chromed steel balls go to a garage (auto repair shop? - It's my best translation guys!) and ask for the ones they remove from bearings, or for the old bearings themselves and crack 'em open. They will be oily however, so wash them in thinners/acetone to degrease them.
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#117 sasman

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Posted 18 February 2004 - 10:08 PM

I used RTV silicon rubber but i ended up using it to cast end plugs for my 6" milling jar.. :) Er ..it didnt melt but was not very good..to cast good lead the mould needs to be rather hot so i went the bullet mould route... I will use my 19mm steel balls to mill single chemicals then use the lead for the final milling...

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#118 Phoenix

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Posted 19 February 2004 - 11:04 AM

Over $100 - OUCH. I just drilled holes in a piece of wood and poured the lead in from a bean can. I just melted it over a good old fashined fire. Nothing ideal, I know, but it worked fine.

I went to a tin mine once, and they used silicone rubber moulds for casting soldiers and badges and stuff from the tin (the melting point of which isn't far off lead, is it?)

Edited by Phoenix, 19 February 2004 - 11:07 AM.


#119 Jerronimo

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Posted 19 February 2004 - 05:48 PM

Oke, I will use brass media then.

I rang up some companies for a pricequote, 15mm diameter solid brass rod for about 12 euro/meter, not that bad,I think I will need about 4 meter.
Any suggestions on the length I will have to cut them?

I use the design on wouter visser's page 11 cm diameter 34 cm long.
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#120 KingVinny

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Posted 18 March 2005 - 11:55 AM

It is quite possible this question has been answered in this topic already but having already read severeal pages I have not seen it. Can marbles be used as milling media? (Just plain old glass marbles)
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