33 replies to this topic

[Arthur Brown]

I want to do a small test batch of willow charcoal, partly to get some numbers wood weight and charcoal weight etc. I have a suitable small tin what sort of time should I plan on cooking a couple of hundred grams of willow to get good charcoal? Is there a time, or should I look for another endpoint determination.

[Karl Mitchell-Shead]

I look for when the pin hole made in the centre of the lid stops venting steam, smoke and impurities. Thats about when the carbon is at its purest and doesnt then start reacting and decomposing with air and heat. Take it straight off the heat and seal the hole until cool.

[Vic]

I look for when the pin hole made in the centre of the lid stops venting steam, smoke and impurities.

If you just make a pin hole in the lid of a average biscuit tin and you have a roaring fire the lid will blow off. you will need at lest 4 holes of about 4mm.

Edited by fflach, 05 February 2010 - 10:47 PM.

[Vic]

I want to do a small test batch of willow charcoal, partly to get some numbers wood weight and charcoal weight etc. I have a suitable small tin what sort of time should I plan on cooking a couple of hundred grams of willow to get good charcoal? Is there a time, or should I look for another endpoint determination.

Ok Arthur here's how I make charcoal small scale:

I use biscuit barrel about 7”x7” you could use a flatter tin but I like that size for ease of use. Drill your vent holes 6 x 4mm. Select your timber and split into roughly ¾” long pieces just short of the hight of your tin. Fill the tin and then wire down your lid by going round the tin and twist tight, I leave a long end so I can suspend it in the fire. I use a largish garden fire pit for the cooking and with a good fire going the tin will become red hot in places . It will start steaming at first from the moisture and the gases will then ignite from the vent holes and then subside in about 2 hours. When the flames just die out from the vents, remove from the fire and place clout nails in the vents and leave to cool for at least ½ an hour before opening the lid.

[Mortartube]

I have made willow charcoal in a flat Fox's biscuit tin on a camping stove. Make sure your willow is de-barked (easiest done when it's green using a serrated bread knife. Just whittle off the bark. Make sure the pieces are uniform in size. Cook till you see no flames at the holes and the white smoke has subsided. I took mine from the stove at this point and put a 2p piece over each hole, then shovelled some dirt to cover the tin. You could use sand or compost peat. Leave to cool and you should be done.

[Arthur Brown]

"remove from the fire and place clout nails in the vents"

FFlach this is inspired!

OK results, -small batch as a trial.
60g willow wood gave 8g nice soft charcoal in about an hour and a half. Cooked til the fumes wouldn't support a flame, then a nail dropped into the vent hole and the tin full cooled for an hour.

Edited by Arthur Brown, 06 February 2010 - 01:20 PM.

[RegimentalPyro]

Handy tip!

I have found that using chainsaw chippings results in charcoal that is already pretty well powdered

[digger]

Handy tip!

I have found that using chainsaw chippings results in charcoal that is already pretty well powdered

mmmm Chainsaw, my favorite tool. I feel the urge to go and chop a few logs up now.

[Deano 1]

I want to do a small test batch of willow charcoal, partly to get some numbers wood weight and charcoal weight etc. I have a suitable small tin what sort of time should I plan on cooking a couple of hundred grams of willow to get good charcoal? Is there a time, or should I look for another endpoint determination.

This is me making charcoal Arthur, and never had a bad BP. I'll try charcoaling anything with this method, tonight I've done out of date coffee beans that were destined for the composter. It made a pretty rapid BP.

Edited by Deano 1, 06 February 2010 - 11:37 PM.

[cooperman435]

Handy tip!

I have found that using chainsaw chippings results in charcoal that is already pretty well powdered

Dont you find it hard to charcoal though Regie?

Maybe my large scale attempt to charcoal chippings was problematic due to the size of the drum and the chippings acting as insulation to the ones in the centre.

[Steve]

I'm having talks with a professional charcoal makers local to me. Problem with professionals is they give you too many options, we all know willow and alder are the best woods to use for lift, and pine is good for sparks, but has anyone got any specific details on types of wood, and preparation. Questions I'm being asked are:
1) Young wood or mature wood, specifically in years.
2) Bark on or bark off.
3) Specific types of willow and Alder.

I've heard that debarked young willow is the best to use, but can't find a reference to back that up.



These guys really seem to know their stuff, and interestingly have made charcoal from things like nettles before. They’re also pretty confident they can make some hemp charcoal, which should be pretty interesting, as it’s something I’ve *never* seen.



If anyone has Pyrotechnica XVII there is an article by Roger O’Neill about charcoal. If anyone has a copy it would be fascinating to hear a summary of the work he did.



While we’re talking charcoal, it would be wise for anyone making charcoal to be used in black powder that will be ball milled to check this thread:

http://www.pyrosocie...__1

Edited by Steve, 07 February 2010 - 06:16 PM.

[Bonny]

Here is a link to an informative set of charcoal tests
http://www.wichitabu...coal_tests.html

[Deano 1]

I'm having talks with a professional charcoal makers local to me. Problem with professionals is they give you too many options, we all know willow and alder are the best woods to use for lift, and pine is good for sparks, but has anyone got any specific details on types of wood, and preparation. Questions I'm being asked are:
1) Young wood or mature wood, specifically in years.
2) Bark on or bark off.
3) Specific types of willow and Alder.

I've heard that debarked young willow is the best to use, but can't find a reference to back that up.



These guys really seem to know their stuff, and interestingly have made charcoal from things like nettles before. They’re also pretty confident they can make some hemp charcoal, which should be pretty interesting, as it’s something I’ve *never* seen.



If anyone has Pyrotechnica XVII there is an article by Roger O’Neill about charcoal. If anyone has a copy it would be fascinating to hear a summary of the work he did.



While we’re talking charcoal, it would be wise for anyone making charcoal to be used in black powder that will be ball milled to check this thread:

http://www.pyrosocie...__1

Hey Steve
I find making different charcoals in small amounts and testing, one of the most exciting parts of this pyro lark. My cooking method ( earlier in this post ) enables you to make small amounts quickly. I've made charcoal from allsorts of woods, bark on, bark off, bark on its own, cotton cloth ( this is rapid ), my latest is coffee beans and surprisingly it makes a fast burning powder. I'm going to try used ground coffee next to see if its the same. You can get bags full of used coffee grounds from starbucks if you tell them its for your garden composter. Instead of asking whats good and what isn't from professionals (which probably all have different oppinions) try it yourself mate

[seymour]

Instead of asking whats good and what isn't from professionals (which probably all have different oppinions) try it yourself mate

While I fully agree with you, making it is rerwarding (and free!), I suspect that Steve is sourcing material to sell from his shop, Inoxia.

[Steve]

You're correct Seymour, these guys are going to do a big burn, so obviously we want to get it right first time. I could run a number of experiments with different age willow etc, but I see no reason to re-invest the wheel as I know these tests have alredy been done, but I'm not having luck finding the results.