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My first ball-milled BP


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#1 Prodigy

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Posted 09 March 2004 - 06:56 PM

I finally tested my ball-milled BP. I found that by using 1/3 of the media I had and 50g of mixture I got much, much better results than with all the media and 100g - even though it only takes up a tiny little bit of the huge barrel!

Anyway, couple of questions. My powder is grey - I was expecting it to be black or greeny-black but it's very much a lovely grey colour. Any ideas why?

Also my powder burns very quickly and extremely brightly but it leaves behind a bit of white residue. Does this mean that there is too much KNO3 or perhaps that it isn't milled for long enough?

I milled it for 15 hours.

Cheers

#2 willd

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Posted 09 March 2004 - 07:01 PM

the residue id guess is probably kno3 as powder ive milled for just 2 hours leaves no residue
will

#3 PanMaster

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Posted 09 March 2004 - 07:05 PM

all my powder is grey and leaves black residue, mill for 24 hours, add water, mill for hour, press, grain
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#4 maxman

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Posted 09 March 2004 - 07:17 PM

I mill for thre hours, just dry meal with no added water. It burns very fast and leaves no residue. The colour after milling is grey although I'm not sure why, could be to do with the lead media??? When I add water and dextrin to make lift powder it goes black then! Also burns in an instant with a Woooof sound.

#5 Prodigy

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Posted 09 March 2004 - 08:02 PM

Burns in an instant and goes woof!?

I've only ever seen that with flash/chlorate BP (which I will never make again!)

Is that after you add the dextrin and water that it burns in an instant?

#6 Richard H

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Posted 09 March 2004 - 08:55 PM

Good meal should burn very cleanly (minimal residue) and rather quickly. Corning of the powder increases burning speed by around 15% If I remember correctly.

#7 maxman

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Posted 09 March 2004 - 08:56 PM

Yes after it is made into granular form for lift powder. I have a video. If you want to see, message me.

#8 sasman

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Posted 10 March 2004 - 12:48 AM

I have just made my first real BP :ph34r: ...
My first batch was gray(Willow Charcoal cooked`at 800 centigrade), However My second batch Of 400 centigrade willow Charcoal was almost Black :) ...
I have just pressed the 400 c willow charcoal into 4" pucks as described on passfire(12 tons on my press) Hopefully density of around 1.7g..cc).. and will soon post videoes of it burning..i corned the first 800 c batch today ....and tommorow ill do the 400 c batch and post my results..The only Problem was i didnt have a 4 mesh sieve(10,20,30,40 mesh is what i used).
I pressed the pucks at 10% moisteure i have wieghed the pucks when pressed 138 g(wet) today weigh 135 g so will let them dry tonite before corning them....
sasman

#9 BurlHorse

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Posted 10 March 2004 - 04:16 PM

I have just made my first real BP  :ph34r: ...
My first batch was gray(Willow Charcoal cooked`at 800 centigrade), However My second batch Of 400 centigrade  willow Charcoal was almost Black  :) ...
  I have just pressed the 400 c willow charcoal into 4" pucks as described on passfire(12 tons on my press) Hopefully density of around 1.7g..cc).. and will soon post videoes of it burning..i corned the first 800 c batch today ....and tommorow ill do the 400 c batch and post my results..The only Problem was i didnt have a 4 mesh sieve(10,20,30,40 mesh is what i used).
  I pressed the pucks at 10% moisteure i have wieghed  the pucks when pressed 138 g(wet) today weigh 135 g so will let them dry tonite before corning them....
sasman

Congrats on the BP!!

[TIP]Weighing the standardized amount of dry powder you usually press, before wetting and pressing, will enable you to "really" Know when they are dry, and ready to crush/corn and sieve, just a tip. [END TIP]

Regards, Stay Green,

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#10 adamw

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Posted 10 March 2004 - 08:58 PM

You may find if you mill it a little longer with a small spray of water, it will turn out black...
75 : 15: 10... Enough said!

#11 pyrodude

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Posted 10 March 2004 - 09:06 PM

I dont know why wetting it makes it black??????. Adam can you answer this for me?

#12 sasman

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Posted 14 July 2004 - 11:43 AM

Im just in the process of making a batch of BP yesterday i corned most of it and have used a 4 to 10 mesh for 2FA and then used 10 to 20 mesh for 3FA .

.i have lots of corning dust left..now im not sure what to do?? should i screen it again thru a 20 to 40 mesh to make 4FA or should i just repress and corn it again?..My main intention for this new batch of BP is for use as Lift & Shells bursting charge..

On Passfire it says you only need 2 types large grain 2FA or 3FA and small grain 4FA or 5FA while Dan williams looks like he uses 3 types 2FA,3FA,4FA ..I have tested this BP and i am 100% sure it is as good as or better than Commercial BP..Not forgetting that i only intend to use this BP for Lift of 3" , 4" , 6" Plastic Shells..and Burst charges?..what should i do with the corning Dust?..

#13 Richard H

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Posted 14 July 2004 - 12:11 PM

You can use the corning dust, or true 'meal' as prime, mixed with some binder, or simply repress and corn into grains.

#14 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 14 July 2004 - 12:27 PM

I always use my remaining corning dust as a prime ingredient. Makes for a nice textured prime, which helps with ignition. I've heard it's good for ramming in rockets/fountains, as it is easier to handle, and tends to puff up around the dolwel less. Thus reducing the amount of airbourne nasties when you're ramming.

#15 Dan

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Posted 14 July 2004 - 01:17 PM

i mill my bp for about 3-4 hours usually depending on what i am using it for. it comes out a nice grey color and when it burn the only thing left over is a black spot from where i burned it. i just started to corn my bp using a woodworking vice (i dont have a press yet :( ) and it works pretty well.

BTW this might seem like a stupid question but i have heard that ordering knives, chemicals etc on the net will put u on a "government watch list' in the USA. Can any one tell me if this is true. I need to order perchorate, red gum, sodium benzate, etc on the net, i really dont like the idea of being watched all the time, it gives me the creeps. :unsure:




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