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Stick length


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#1 pjalchemist

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 06:27 PM

So is there a way to work out what size stick i need, length and dia?

My tubes for the motor are 3 /4" ID X 7.5" LONG X 1/8" wall Convolute/Parallel wound plain craft paper tubes

Im only trying KN03 with Sugar 60/40 before any BP. Just ground then rammed (got a ramming kit).

Edited by pjalchemist, 19 October 2011 - 08:47 PM.


#2 www.oliverbrown.co.uk

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 06:44 PM

As a rule of thumb you can just try any stick and pop a finger just behind the nozzle on the stick and see if it balences, if it's tail heavy snap a bit off, I leave mine slightly tail heavy, seemsto work best for me!
Your tooling went out today, was too heavy for normal post so went 'parcels', not sure how long that takes but I'd guess a couple of days. :unsure:
http://www.oliverbro...o.uk/index.html Pyrotechnic supplies and tooling

#3 starseeker

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 07:27 PM

As a rule of thumb you can just try any stick and pop a finger just behind the nozzle on the stick and see if it balences, if it's tail heavy snap a bit off, I leave mine slightly tail heavy, seemsto work best for me!
Your tooling went out today, was too heavy for normal post so went 'parcels', not sure how long that takes but I'd guess a couple of days. :unsure:


Do you have a tooling list for interests sake? :rolleyes:

#4 www.oliverbrown.co.uk

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 08:24 PM

Do you have a tooling list for interests sake? :rolleyes:


I'll make anything you like, I prefere to work in 3/4" as I have quite a few ali bars!
I have a set of 3/4" coreburner ready to go, brass spindle, 4x ali rammers and a hardwood base (Oak) £52.50 inc P+P
Are you after anything in perticular?
http://www.oliverbro...o.uk/index.html Pyrotechnic supplies and tooling

#5 pjalchemist

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 08:47 PM

Thanks CB,

I'll be sure to post some photo of your work once it arrives!

#6 nihc

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 11:48 AM

Hi,

Here are the recommended stick lengths for BP core-burning rocket sizes:

2 oz - 18" long / 3/16" sq
4 oz - 24" long / 1/4" sq
8 oz - 30" long / 1/4" - 3/8" sq
1 lb - 36" long / 3/8" sq
2 lb - 42" long / 1/2" - 5/8" sq

1 lb rockets have a 3/4" inside diameter x 7 1/2" length. So, your stick length should be 36" x 3/8 sq.
Normal max payload for a 1lb BP core-burner is 4-6 oz, although I've lifted 300g headers.

It's the air flowing past the stick that stabilizes it rather than the weight of the stick. Hence no one ever talks of stick weight.

Hope that helps a bit.

Regards, Chris.

#7 pjalchemist

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 03:34 PM

Hi,

Here are the recommended stick lengths for BP core-burning rocket sizes:

2 oz - 18" long / 3/16" sq
4 oz - 24" long / 1/4" sq
8 oz - 30" long / 1/4" - 3/8" sq
1 lb - 36" long / 3/8" sq
2 lb - 42" long / 1/2" - 5/8" sq

1 lb rockets have a 3/4" inside diameter x 7 1/2" length. So, your stick length should be 36" x 3/8 sq.
Normal max payload for a 1lb BP core-burner is 4-6 oz, although I've lifted 300g headers.

It's the air flowing past the stick that stabilizes it rather than the weight of the stick. Hence no one ever talks of stick weight.

Hope that helps a bit.

Regards, Chris.


Chris your a legend! Thank you

#8 dan100

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 06:03 PM

Normal max payload for a 1lb BP core-burner is 4-6 oz, although I've lifted 300g headers.





ive seen them lift 550g shells with no nozzle, they should push 1lb stick and allwith one, are you using 60/30/10 or a slower ratio?
the stick should be no more than half the id and 6 [correct me dag] times the motor length,
the balance point behind the nozzle will not always work, in wind for example you will need a shorter stick than without wind because of the extra drag it will experience.
if there is no wind the only drag on the stick comes from the surface area as it provides its own drag travelling up[ why square sticks fly straighter] and the weight of the stick is also being dragged.

dan.

Edited by dan100, 20 October 2011 - 06:08 PM.


#9 pjalchemist

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 07:08 PM

It's just on suagr currently so 60/40

#10 starseeker

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 08:03 PM

I'll make anything you like, I prefere to work in 3/4" as I have quite a few ali bars!
I have a set of 3/4" coreburner ready to go, brass spindle, 4x ali rammers and a hardwood base (Oak) £52.50 inc P+P
Are you after anything in perticular?


Something i have been thinking on is a time fuse cutting tool,i have looked at rich walters ,although very nice i do not need anything as sophisticated as that and also it is a bit pricey.

#11 starseeker

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 08:11 PM

When you start lifting large headers,i.e 200g plus,if you try to balance it just behind the nozzle you will need a massive stick. The other day i lifted a 290g can heading with a 1lb rocket and the stick length was 36"x 3.8th,flew beutifully. If you would like the fuel formula i use i will post it up.

#12 megabusa

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 08:28 PM

When you start lifting large headers,i.e 200g plus,if you try to balance it just behind the nozzle you will need a massive stick. The other day i lifted a 290g can heading with a 1lb rocket and the stick length was 36"x 3.8th,flew beutifully. If you would like the fuel formula i use i will post it up.


What comp are you using in 1lb motors ?

I use 13/7/2 with 5% #40 to dust charcoal added after milling.

I also granulate with no dextrin, makes it cleaner when ramming !

#13 nihc

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 09:07 PM

What comp are you using in 1lb motors ?

I use 13/7/2 with 5% #40 to dust charcoal added after milling.

I also granulate with no dextrin, makes it cleaner when ramming !


I've always used the following formula:

Pot Nitrate 60%
C ( airfloat) 10%
C (80#) 18%
C (40#) 2%
S 10%

Screen everything together ( bar 80# and 40# Charcoal) through a 150 or 100 mesh screen 3 times.
Mix in the 80 and 40 mesh charcoal
Dissolve 2% red gum in IPA and add to composition.
Granulate roughly through a 4 mesh screen.

This gives a lovely, long charcoal tail and is perfect rocket fuel without ball milling.

You can just use all airfloat charcoal instead of the different mesh sizes, but you won't get the charcoal tail.

I just use commercial hardwood charcoal, no super-reactive stuff.

Regards, Chris.

#14 digger

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 09:56 PM

Something i have been thinking on is a time fuse cutting tool,i have looked at rich walters ,although very nice i do not need anything as sophisticated as that and also it is a bit pricey.


I bought the one that punches the timing holes. Yep it was pricey, but it is a lovely bit of kit, and they are custom made to your specs. You have to supply fuse diameter (1/4 inch is not always 6.35mm) and the specs of the match you are using so it comes as perfect fit for your needs.

I only use the one timing hole on mine (due to the fuse assembly I use on shells), I will never have to cut another bit of fuse again for cross matching (thank god).

They are a joy to use
Phew that was close.

#15 starseeker

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 06:30 PM

I bought the one that punches the timing holes. Yep it was pricey, but it is a lovely bit of kit, and they are custom made to your specs. You have to supply fuse diameter (1/4 inch is not always 6.35mm) and the specs of the match you are using so it comes as perfect fit for your needs.

I only use the one timing hole on mine (due to the fuse assembly I use on shells), I will never have to cut another bit of fuse again for cross matching (thank god).

They are a joy to use


You have now got me thinking Gareth,i suppose it is christmas coming up and i do deserve to buy my self something nice, :D




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