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The spec will probably all depend on what electirc matches you are using. All electric matches are current dependant, ie will blow at 500mA or whatever, if at 1v or 100v.
Most commercial ones will have a particular current required to set them off, and a smaller current up to which they will not go off, to enable checking of connection.
I think aprox guides are up to 50mA for checking connection, and allow up to 600mA to get a garrenteed fire.
If you use your own matches you will have to test them yourself using current logging equipment. Try and make them all as similar as possible to prevent missfires or accidental fires.
The one thing that must not happen is that your connection checking current is enough to set it off, or that you have the posibility of a connection problem or short that could trigger a match.
All i can say is test test test, before attaching any actual fireworks to the kit.
As for your system;
There are fancy capacative discharge systems, but i doubt you will need anything that complex. That leaves 2 types of standard systems as far as im aware, the simple one wire is one match, or the IC based systems with a microprocessor based head that lets you have less wires and control more devices. Each to their own, one for simplicity one for features. It depends how confident you are with your electronics.
The wiring you use is important - long lengths of thin cable have a surprisingly high resistance, especially if carrying a reasonable current. I'm trying to make a system that uses cat5, but im coming up with troubles with this effect. If you build in allowance for the resistance, then using short runs could be dangerous. If you can afford a long length of multicore high current cable then that would be best.
Make sure your cables & connections are protected against mosture. The amount of dew the devices seem to attach themseleves in is suprising even by early evening on a winters day.
An inevatable word about safety - make sure your system is "fail safe" so if some disaster happens nothing goes off, rather than "fail unsafe" when all hell breaks loose.
Give your system a key switch - but it is essential to have the key remoable in only the off position, otherwise you could accidentally leave it on without realising.
The last system i made had a buzzer built into it, as well as the standard light, to give you extra warning whenever it was turned on.
Good luck!
Many thanks for the information, it's just what I need, now to the drawing board to try and design the circuit diagram. I'll post my efforts for comment. Thanks again.
