Jump to content


Member Since 04 Oct 2005
Offline Last Active Dec 07 2005 01:51 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: How to prepare smoke compositions

30 November 2005 - 05:10 PM

nah nothing so extreme guys....i play alot of paintball, and im a mechanical engineer, so i'm developing things for myself when i go play to give me an edge.

as for the amatuer film thing though...i am making a website for the stuff i built with a flash/video intro using my devices so the smoke might be in there

might i also inquire as to where you got your die....i cant find it anywhere...i only find huge chemical suppliers or paint pigment

and i dont think i could use HC smoke in paintball....way too toxic

In Topic: Non Pyro Discussion about non pyro discussions

28 November 2005 - 07:06 PM

my thought was the "Im a new member" thread was there to introduce yourself and say hello, then move onto those posts which interest you the most...any non pyro topics should be in their own area.

just my 2 cents

In Topic: How to prepare smoke compositions

28 November 2005 - 06:42 PM

rooster....what was your mixture for your red smoke with rhodamine b?

I'm trying to find a formulation for a tactical smoke mix that has good dense smoke, with good color, dense so it stays low to the ground and doesnt use a chlorate.

Im nervous of using the US military mixture of KCLO3, Sulfur flour, Sodium Bicarbonate, and smoke dye...

I'd like to have something that might have a shelf life of a 6 months or so after i shrink-wrap it to reduce its exposure to air...but i dont want it to explode if stored wrong

what do you think guys...maybe use the mil-smoke formula but make it into a composite using P-Ban?

i came across another formula for a dense bright smoke:

50% smoke dye
25% Potassium Chlorate
14% Asphaltum
8% Powdered (confectioner’s) sugar
3% Baking soda
+3% Dextrin

Make sure all is very fine powder and well mixed.

Put ? of the mixed composition in a plastic bag and add water mixed with 10% denatured alcohol. Add a little at a time and knead to the point you can form a ball that won't crumble. Add the remaining 1/4 of composition and knead more. If it won’t hold together and crumbles, add a couple of drops more water and knead the hell out of it. It's very important that it's not too wet. You can tell if it’s too wet by squeezing a ball of it in your hand. If water comes out between your fingers, it’s too wet. In that case, add more dry comp. Once you have a firm ball, granulate it through a ten mesh screen and let dry. If your comp. is too wet, you will only get a smear on the screen.

I used tubes that had a 2-inch inside dimension (ID), and that were 3" long. I epoxied plywood to one end. Then filled the tubes 3/4 full of the smoke comp. and lightly pressed it down. Then I epoxied plywood to the top, and made a ?-inch hole in the plywood, stuck a fuse in and put a slurry of meal powder around the hole to keep the comp. from falling out and to hold the fuse in. A wad of tissue paper would work just as well. The composition does not require any prime to ignite, just a fuse. For best results, ignite these in sunlight. This formulation burns so cold that you can burn it in a paper cup and only after the smoke stops, does the cup start burning. The dye stains everything it touches, so be careful. You might want to use latex gloves and wear clothes you don’t care about. Orange GoJo hand cleaner gets the dye off your hands nicely.

In Topic: Simple beginer firework.

19 November 2005 - 08:47 PM

i would recommend Introduction to Practical Pyrotechnics by Tom Perigrin...you can buy it from Skylighter.com
for around 50 USD....this takes you step by step...and explains everything....


In Topic: Tubes

16 November 2005 - 12:50 PM

Sounds very interesting Ghost Walker, can you tell us a little bit about the device?.

Sure. Its actually rather simple...imagine if you will your roll of craft with a dowel afixed throught its center, now on each end of the dowel pressure is added to the ends on each side to resist rotation. this is done by one series of fixed blocks and another using springs and a few carriage bolts and nuts so you can adjust the compression on the dowel...

on the other end a similar set up is used except the dowel on this end is the one you are rolling the tube on. and pressure is used on this on to resist the paper becoming slack..

so in theory once you are set up and the paper is taught.. you can apply your glue/paste, turn the dowel, rinse and repeat..and have a nice tightly wound tube

i got the idea watching my wife cross-stitch with a holder for the cloth that keeps the material tight