chim-chim

My respect for flash, like many other people, also came from a bit of a surprise. 2g's must have been scary, I was using maybe .2-.3g of 70/30 left over from doing a few .5g rocket reports. I rolled it quite loosely in about a 3" piece of rice paper expecting a bright burning quick match effect. You guessed it, BANG! Not much more than a firecracker, but a lot more than fuse for sure. I wouldn't have considered two loose wraps of rice paper containment for a weakened housefly, but that flash sure snapped.

Be careful everyone.

Now I feel old.
Thanks Stuart.

As a general rule, if an ingredient used in an older formula isn't used much anymore, I figure there's probably a reason , legal if nothing else.

I'm curious as well,
but remember to take additional precautions and extra care (i.e.-lots of research, which is what you're starting now I guess) working with archaic formulas.

I've considered salvaging the pull string charges out of confetti poppers and mounting them in a small spolette of delay to ignite mine. Same Idea as ordering from Firefox I suppose but less wait and hassle.

As a general tip, consider brillance and saturation as well as color.

Assuming your blues are less bright and saturated than your greens, which are brighter but less saturated than your purples which are as bright but not a saturated as your reds, or some such order. You are going to want to consider the order as well the combination. I'd love to do a star that went Red/White/Blue, but noone would be able to see the blue after the bright red has them seeing a green after image and the white has desensatized thier vision . Whereas Blue/Red/White would be distinguishable and get progressivly brighter.

This site has some great colorwheels and quick explanations but keep in mind they're talking pigment, not light (mix green and orange light get yellow, mix green and orange paint, get brown, lights an additive process, pigments are subtractive)