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Help Needed For Ball Mill


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#31 Mumbles

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Posted 10 January 2008 - 07:38 PM

Yes, I milled some last night, it is of pretty good quality. Of course there are more factors such as chemical purity (not really that important), quality of charcoal (much more important). Given good materials, overnight should be fine, not that I recomend leaving a ball mill with live composition unattended while you sleep.

That lift bar idea is a GREAT idea. I had never thought of it. Time to clean the mill and break out the hot glue gun. Also, a toothbrush makes quick work of sharp corners of compacted comp. I use them all the time on my crossette pump to clean out the end near the pin.

#32 Zinginex

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Posted 10 January 2008 - 07:48 PM

Yes, I milled some last night, it is of pretty good quality. Of course there are more factors such as chemical purity (not really that important), quality of charcoal (much more important). Given good materials, overnight should be fine, not that I recomend leaving a ball mill with live composition unattended while you sleep.

That lift bar idea is a GREAT idea. I had never thought of it. Time to clean the mill and break out the hot glue gun. Also, a toothbrush makes quick work of sharp corners of compacted comp. I use them all the time on my crossette pump to clean out the end near the pin.


lol yeah I was thinking of cleaning oiut with a toothbrush too as well but seeing as it will only be for bp it should be fine :D thanks for the replies. So Mumbles I assume you have the same rock tumbler?

#33 Asteroid

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:29 PM

Don't forget that harbour freight's mills are 120v, so won't work on UK mains!

Edited by Asteroid, 11 January 2008 - 04:29 PM.


#34 dr thrust

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 06:16 PM

yeah good point, but you can get over it by using a 240v-110v step down transformer from good old ebay :) expect to pay about 14 for a 200 watt

Edited by chris m, 13 April 2008 - 10:09 PM.


#35 Zinginex

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 07:26 PM

yeah good point, but you can get over it by using a 240v-110v step down transformer from good old ebay :) expect to pay about 14 for a 200 watt

Aaahh man just when i thought it was perfect... <_< so what's the problem ? Are UK mains not powerful enough to power the mill?

#36 Andrew

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 08:47 PM

Aaahh man just when i thought it was perfect... <_< so what's the problem ? Are UK mains not powerful enough to power the mill?


????

UK mains is actually more capable of delivering "power" than than most other mains supplies in the world.

The problem is the rated voltage of the motor in question. You cannot put 230V into a 120V rated motor and expect it to survive! A loud bang and fire usually ensue. You need a transformer to step the mains voltage to the required rated voltage or slightly below.

#37 Bonny

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 11:17 PM

[quote name='Andrew' date='Jan 11 2008, 08:47 PM' post='41822']
????

UK mains is actually more capable of delivering "power" than than most other mains supplies in the world.

Damn North Americans and their low voltages eh! Although very similar, we have more (and better) power in Canada than USA, household power here is 120 and 240V.

#38 Zinginex

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Posted 13 January 2008 - 10:33 AM

yeah good point, but you can get over it by using a 240v-110v step down transformer from good old ebay :) expect to pay about 14 for a 200 watt


http://cgi.ebay.co.u...1QQcmdZViewItem
Found that on Ebay. Is that a good enough transformer for the mill?

#39 Zinginex

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 10:39 PM

Hey I've cme back a bit wiser this time lol but i've taken to the idea of securing 22mm OD skateboard bearings into 22mm Pipe clips but please could somebody tell me how I would secure a 8mm rod into the bearing? I'm sorry for being a noob lol but do you literally have to hammer it in? I don't know if you can cos surely it wouldn't fit or do you find a 7mm rod or would that be too small to fit in the bearing and not be secure? Do you glue the shaft into the bearing? PLease can someone help me?
Thankyou very much

Edited by Zinginex, 30 January 2008 - 10:41 PM.


#40 dr thrust

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 11:50 PM

howdy partner!! easy fix here my Friend :) to stop the milling jar from spinning on the 8mm rod you will have to glue a plastic pipe/tube over the rod, just like a proper mill now if this pipe/tube is an inch or so shorter than the steel rod you can push the bearings up to the pipe/tube and fix them down because the bearings are now butted up to the plastic pipe/ tube the rod can't go left or right so its fixed!!! just picture a rolling pin

#41 richard2

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Posted 31 January 2008 - 10:28 AM

Hello

The bearings should just slide on to your rod. Have you purchased them yet? If not ask the manufacturer what tolerences they work to eg +/- 0.01mm. I use some old conveyer belt rollers with a 1/2" shaft and 1/2" pillow block bearings. These slide on and are a perfect fit however one shaft had a slight dent in it which needed some attention with a file before it would slide in. They are then secured with the grub screw built into the pillow block bearing. It is not a good idea to hammer your bearings as you may damage them. If they are a tight fit you could mount the rod in a drill and remove some material with some emery cloth.

Are you sure that the 8mm rod will be strong enough? What material is it made from? Remember it is going to support a very heavy jar full of lead.

Regards


Rich

#42 BrightStar

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Posted 31 January 2008 - 01:08 PM

Hey I've cme back a bit wiser this time lol but i've taken to the idea of securing 22mm OD skateboard bearings into 22mm Pipe clips but please could somebody tell me how I would secure a 8mm rod into the bearing?


I used roller blade bearings mounted with pipe clips in my mill (there's a picture of it somewhere on here) and 8mm threaded rods (metric studding) from a high street DIY store. This allows you to secure the rods with a few M8 nuts and washers locked against each other. I then used 30mm plastic pipe as rollers - just make some wooden end plugs and thread the 8mm studding all the way through.

I can't really comment on the strength but for a 1.3litre HDPE jar from Inoxia with a 1 Kg or so of ceramic media it seems happy enough and generates up to 250g of BP per batch. I imagine it would support one of their larger jars without problems.

Edited by BrightStar, 31 January 2008 - 08:16 PM.


#43 Zinginex

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Posted 31 January 2008 - 07:19 PM

howdy partner!! easy fix here my Friend :) to stop the milling jar from spinning on the 8mm rod you will have to glue a plastic pipe/tube over the rod, just like a proper mill now if this pipe/tube is an inch or so shorter than the steel rod you can push the bearings up to the pipe/tube and fix them down because the bearings are now butted up to the plastic pipe/ tube the rod can't go left or right so its fixed!!! just picture a rolling pin


Thanks very much for the replies.
So to confirm (lol sorry) a 8mm rod should slide into a 8mm ID bearing and will be secure? Secure enough so when the rod is spun it will spin with the bearing? not just spin in the bearing hole on its own?
Thanks

#44 Bonny

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Posted 31 January 2008 - 07:53 PM

Thanks very much for the replies.
So to confirm (lol sorry) a 8mm rod should slide into a 8mm ID bearing and will be secure? Secure enough so when the rod is spun it will spin with the bearing? not just spin in the bearing hole on its own?
Thanks


When the rod is spun the inner race of the bearing should turn with it. If the rod spins inside the bearing it will wear out quickly depending on how loose of a fit.

#45 Zinginex

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Posted 31 January 2008 - 08:17 PM

When the rod is spun the inner race of the bearing should turn with it. If the rod spins inside the bearing it will wear out quickly depending on how loose of a fit.


Ah ok thanks just remember i have sum old skates. I've got the bearings out of them but just need to find some right sized rod lol. Ill post you if i get any further.
Thanks for all the replies




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