47 replies to this topic

[cooperman435]

Thanks ! :-)

I considered the heads alone but thought exactly the same as you that I couldnt be bothered to solder leads and dip them myself too!

Ive still got LOADS if folks want some to try.

Hopefully Ill be getting the next lot with longer leads as it sems a popular suggestion. Currently only available from e in 30cm leads I hope to get 1 metre or 2 meter next time.

PyroPDC if you wouldnt mind mentioning this on the website as a review Id apreciate it v much

Ill also be doing some pyrogen testing soon so will publish results though the one I mention on the website has so far proved very stable (apart from its already sensative nature) in the long run, I have 2 year old Igs that still work fine.

[CCH Concepts]

Thanks ! :-)

I considered the heads alone but thought exactly the same as you that I couldnt be bothered to solder leads and dip them myself too!

Ive still got LOADS if folks want some to try.

Hopefully Ill be getting the next lot with longer leads as it sems a popular suggestion. Currently only available from e in 30cm leads I hope to get 1 metre or 2 meter next time.

PyroPDC if you wouldnt mind mentioning this on the website as a review Id apreciate it v much

Ill also be doing some pyrogen testing soon so will publish results though the one I mention on the website has so far proved very stable (apart from its already sensative nature) in the long run, I have 2 year old Igs that still work fine.

i would be interested depending on the price. i currently make my own.

i make the dip using

anatomy trisulphide and pot perchlorate bound by nitro lacquer.

would you suggest a better why?

[cooperman435]

Im sorry I dont understand what you mean in the last line?

[CCH Concepts]

Im sorry I dont understand what you mean in the last line?

dyslexia strikes again. i meant, can you suggest a better way?

[Arthur Brown]

Probably the happiest arrival on the market, these ig blanks mean you can safely fuse electrically and fire from a safe distance.

H3 compound in NC has worked for me. Dark flash has also been suggested. For either it is important to realise that the ingredients need to be separately prepared to airfloat then individually mixed into NC lacquer. Make as little as you can get away with, say 0.5 - 1ml this will make about 50 igs! A separate extra outer dip of lacquer protects against chlorate-sulphur in compatibilities, This can be pushed into QM leaders or it can be dipped again in a second fire comp -even greenmix in NC. If you chose you can paint the outside with coloured NC lacquer (nail varnish!)

[Atom Fireworks]

just a update iv changed my pyrogen mixture to the following (as cooperman advised)

Antimony trisulphide 47.5%
Potassium Chlorate 47.5%
Nitrocellulose powder 5%

(nail varnish outer coating)

not only does it give a more familiar popping sound and by far more quicker to react I have had no failures since changing to the new mixture .

it also worth noting that when I was making igniter's with my own nichrome wire they had a rather high resistance and could not get them to work with the cheap china firing system but the new self dip igniter's will work on the cheap firing system.


P.S Note to self. Do not steal daughters nail varnish for igniter's when it's there time of the month, they can get rather dangerous

Quality, good advice A*

[CCH Concepts]

just a update iv changed my pyrogen mixture to the following (as cooperman advised)

Antimony trisulphide 47.5%
Potassium Chlorate 47.5%
Nitrocellulose powder 5%

(nail varnish outer coating)

not only does it give a more familiar popping sound and by far more quicker to react I have had no failures since changing to the new mixture .

it also worth noting that when I was making igniter's with my own nichrome wire they had a rather high resistance and could not get them to work with the cheap china firing system but the new self dip igniter's will work on the cheap firing system.


P.S Note to self. Do not steal daughters nail varnish for igniter's when it's there time of the month, they can get rather dangerous

i have been using perchlorate not chlorate. my home made ones worked but i had a lot more exposed nichrome. the ignites i bought from copperman have more of a spark rather than a burning wire like i have been getting. will swapping the perchlorate for chlorate make it sensitive enough to ignite?

also isn't there a compatibility issue with using chlorate with a trisulphide?

[CCH Concepts]

the chlorate / Antimony trisulphide mixture is very friction sensitive, so it doesn't take much to ignite it. i had a little test and put a tiny dot on the floor and tapped it with a hammer (it let off a hell of a pop sound like a cap gun)

i cant say iv had a reaction anything like that with black powder or perchlorate igniter mixtures

thats my worry and why i haven't tried it yet. brings back bad memories of Armstrong's mixture. i brought some phosphorous i was going to use with chlorate, but same problem. any suggestions?

[CCH Concepts]

personal i don't use chlorate apart from the igniter's (maybe in the future when I gain more experience)but I was warned to make sure the chlorate was completely dissolved before adding the Antimony trisulphide and not to let the mixture go dry (add acetone as needed) also don't store any of the unwanted composition.

would i need to worry about manipulating the igniter. I'm thinking if this is anywhere near the sensitivity of Armstrong's mixture, if i move the wires it could ignite in the same way as a party popper having its sting pulled apart. not good if I'm inserting it in a firework etc

am i being over dramatic?

[cooperman435]

well you wont get any wire friction as the head is the only part that should have a small drop of pyrogen on, therefore there is nothing that can move at all near the pyrogen.

Also as Pyro PDC said once dipped in pyrogen THEN dip them in nail varnish to coat the pyrogen in a non reactive protective coating.

It is very sensative stuff because of the Chlorate/ Trisulphide incompatability, but thats the point of using it as the igniter's are designed to fire so fast they don't give out that much heat to ignite less sensitive pyrogens.

I hope to experiment soon with a 2 stage idea where the head is dipped in very runny chlorate/trisulphide pyrogen so as to only deposit a tiny amount on it. then a second dip in something much more stable as the main burning material, followed by the coating again to further reduce friction. This means the nasty stuff has 2 coatings and one of them is much thicker as a buffer to damage

[CCH Concepts]

what are you thinking for the secound pyrogen? H3, Antimony trisulphide and pottasium perchlorate or maybe just meal powder. or probably there is one i havnt thought of lol