47 replies to this topic

[cooperman435]

I think meal would probably do though I want to find something that is easy to apply in a very neat controlled way to create the "blob" on the end. (only because Im so anal about how things look lol)

[CCH Concepts]

I think meal would probably do though I want to find something that is easy to apply in a very neat controlled way to create the "blob" on the end. (only because Im so anal about how things look lol)

what about a really think mixture of Antimony trisulphide and potassium perchlorate bound with nitro lacquer. i found that this can even be molded if you have it thick enough.

Edited by CCH Concepts, 30 September 2009 - 10:13 PM.

[cooperman435]

no to do it correctly it has to be an exact viscosity to allow the droplet to form its self into a perfect bead its self. shaping them by hand (or finger) would take 10x as long as my current method does.

thick stuff would also not come into as good contact with the bridge wire

also it needs to be probably water based binder on the second coat to stop it damaging the NC bound layer underneath.

[CCH Concepts]

if meal powder was used is there the risk of the sulfur breaking down to sulphuric acid and the igniter going off prematurely. or would the NC stop the moisture getting to the sulfur?

[Mumbles]

NC should stop any reaction I would hope. A lot of people use a final dip in straight NC lacquer to waterproof and protect their e-matches. I don't know if I would worry about the two layers mixing if your putting meal over the dark flash comp posted earlier.

[MDH]

As I stated previously calcium carbonates and other bases are used commercially to counter the reaction.

[cooperman435]

which reaction MDH?

[CCH Concepts]

the Antimony trisulphide and potassium chlorate dip works a treat. found i needed a bit more than 5% NC though.

what i did find though is when i added the NC coating it much reduced the propogation of the fire, but i had only tried it a short while after applying it. im about to try them again after several days.

im happy though push a split visco in the plastic cover with them and its more than enough to set it off.

one question though im still struggleing with my quick match, does anyone know a uk supplier?

[Arthur Brown]

QM is not available retail. It is available from professional supplies places. They need to e certain that you are a competent individual before they will open to you. Several supply houses are represented on here BUT they keep very quiet! They usually only supply to competent, trained, insured people with (for QM )1.3 storage.

QM is a professional fusing supply not a retail firework product.

[cooperman435]

cch why did you find you needed more than 5% nc and can you describe step by step the process u made the pyrogen by and how you applied it?

I cant see why you needed more as it counteracts the point of using the specific components if you add more NC.

post a pic of one of your completed ematch heads too will ya?

[CCH Concepts]

yer i got it wrong. now its fully dry they don't work anymore just pop. where i went wrong was i weighted out 5% NC and didn't dilute it. which of course meant it wasn't enough to bind the powder. in hindsight this was pretty stupid. lol so I'm supposed to dilute it makes sense, how much acetone would you add to get the right consistency.

[cooperman435]

did you maybe add 5% NC laquer CCH? It is supposed to be 5% dry NC powder so that will make a huge difference?

I also only need 1 dip to get the bead perfect size PDC?

[CCH Concepts]

did you maybe add 5% NC laquer CCH? It is supposed to be 5% dry NC powder so that will make a huge difference?

I also only need 1 dip to get the bead perfect size PDC?

arrr ive only used the laquer before, do you have NC powder on you site or know where i can buy it.