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self dip Igniters


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#31 cooperman435

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 10:58 PM

laquer is dry NC dissolved.

If your going to do this hobby YOU MUST read and understand very VERY carefully before starting!

If you have any of the composition left from that batch then take it outside and destroy it quickly, any ematches you made with it need destroying too. (or at least cleaning VERY well with acetone to remove all the comp from them)

If the comp you made has too little NC in it then it will be dangerously unstable and liable to react whilst stored.

IF A FORMULA CALLS FOR DRY NC USE IT. IF IT SAYS TO ADD ONE THING TO ANOTHER AND THEN THE NEXT IN ORDER IT HAS TO BE DONE LIKE THAT ONLY!

#32 Guest_PyroPDC_*

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 11:34 PM

laquer is dry NC dissolved.

If your going to do this hobby YOU MUST read and understand very VERY carefully before starting!

If you have any of the composition left from that batch then take it outside and destroy it quickly, any ematches you made with it need destroying too. (or at least cleaning VERY well with acetone to remove all the comp from them)

If the comp you made has too little NC in it then it will be dangerously unstable and liable to react whilst stored.

IF A FORMULA CALLS FOR DRY NC USE IT. IF IT SAYS TO ADD ONE THING TO ANOTHER AND THEN THE NEXT IN ORDER IT HAS TO BE DONE LIKE THAT ONLY!



i forgot to put I use NC laquer but dried and turned into flakes (so more accurate in weight) which i would then add the acetone (would this not be the same as dry nc powder. apart from added acetone does the laquer have any extra chemicals than NC powder

Edited by PyroPDC, 04 October 2009 - 11:36 PM.


#33 CCH Concepts

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Posted 05 October 2009 - 06:12 PM

I must have misread, i honestly didn't see that it was nc powder not nc. And all the comp was destroyed strait after i finished dipping.

#34 cooperman435

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Posted 05 October 2009 - 09:26 PM

PDC - Depending on your type of NC lacquer it may have plasticisers added too, but this is fine and can still be taken when dried out as pure NC.

CCH - I appreciate the mistake, but it could have been a very dangerous one. Read twice, then act once or you may not get chance to for at best a long time.

#35 StephF

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Posted 06 October 2009 - 10:40 AM

PDC - Depending on your type of NC lacquer it may have plasticisers added too, but this is fine and can still be taken when dried out as pure NC.


If dry NC powder is not available would nitrated cotton wool (after neutralization) be suitable ?

#36 cooperman435

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Posted 06 October 2009 - 04:18 PM

not entirely sure myself though technically it is pure NC isnt it?

I reckon that drying NC lacquer would be easier though.

#37 Arthur Brown

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Posted 06 October 2009 - 06:06 PM

Nitrated cellulose has differing solubilities in various solvents according to the degree of nitration.
http://www.movember.com/uk/home/

Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..

#38 PyroCreationZ

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Posted 14 October 2009 - 10:01 PM

Yesterday I received the 500 ematches I ordered from Cooperman (along with his shooting box and many new electrical parts :) ).
I haven't tried a pyrogen on them but tested one straight away and they look good, the NiCr wire gave a nice "flash" so I'm sure they'll work great.
I have bought Chinese ones before (black wire and a special white head at the end with NiCr between them) and they costed me much more. Probably because of those little white heads?
The ones from Cooperman are cheap, reliable. I'd definatly recommand them!

About the dry NC, you can make it by blending ping pong balls.

Thanks again Cooperman for all the supplies, help, etc.
Two thumbs up ;)

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#39 CCH Concepts

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Posted 14 October 2009 - 10:15 PM

I've been trying to grind some dried NC to make powder, but because of its plastic nature it just wont grind it just squashes.

#40 cooperman435

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 02:19 PM

Reviving this thread as Im about to order a large quantity of self dip igniters again.

A number of people requested I contact them before doing so but as usual I forgot who specifically asked about them so its here if you want to contact me.

Prices are estimates as due to customs and shipping charges I cannot price them exactly, I do not however expect prices to deviate much from the list below, my expectations are for the prices to be slightly lower.

These are the prices for 1000 e matches of a given length, discount is expected to be between 10 and 25% if ordered in advance in the quantities written in brackets after the price.

30cm = 12p each (2000)
50cm = 15p each (2000)
1m = 21p each (1000)
2m = 30p each (1000)
3m = 40p each (800)
4m = 49p each (500)

If sufficient quantities are ordered then basic prices will be considerably lower than this and then discount will be knocked off also. the prices above are the estimated listing price on the web shop.

anyone ordering multiple quantities will also be offered a greater discount obviously.

to advance book I will require 80% payment of the orders full price prior to booking the shipment, any problems at my end and this is 100% refundable, once the shipment arrives exact costs will be calculated (with shipping if needed) any remaining payments would be made before goods will be sent. Expect delivery to me around 2 weeks from placing the order.

Please email me with any questions and requirements you may have.

Phill

#41 cooperman435

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 10:16 AM

For those following this thread I have now placed the order and paid for it, 14,000 of the self dip igniters are in transit to me currently.

as this is a relitavly small order for them the 30cm igniters may be slightly more than the 12p previously mentioned due to relativity large transport and customs charges but I doubt they will be much more.

#42 cooperman435

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 06:20 PM

There here!

I hve loads of 30cm ones again and some 100cm ones too

Ive listed them on the shop today which for anyone who has lost the link is http://vividgraphics.co.uk/catalog/ (also on my signature below)

Im testing pyrogens out now as we speak in an attempt to remove or reduce the sensative one Ive been using so will post the results too.

If anyone has any but for the dark flash or H3 types then please let me know some to try out.

#43 leosedf

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 10:30 AM

Hey!
My friend bought some and i had a change to test them.

The only problem i had is the voltage needed for these. My system is a 12V firing system and they keep misfiring. When i use smaller voltage like 1,5V - 6V they light up fine. Seems that the nichrome wire is pretty fine.

Anyone had problems? Can we find those with a thicker nichrome wire?

#44 Guest_PyroPDC_*

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 12:15 PM

Hey!
My friend bought some and i had a change to test them.

The only problem i had is the voltage needed for these. My system is a 12V firing system and they keep misfiring. When i use smaller voltage like 1,5V - 6V they light up fine. Seems that the nichrome wire is pretty fine.

Anyone had problems? Can we find those with a thicker nichrome wire?


i use a a 24volt system and never had a failure, thicker nichrome would make it harder to ignite, has your 12v system got enough amps .

are you saying without pyrogen the ignitor will not go on your 12v system (is it your pyrogen failing or the ignitor)

i would personal look at your controller since if a 3v system is firing it then a 12v system should have no problems.

#45 leosedf

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 12:21 PM

Lower voltages can ignite those easy. 12V systems just snap the nichrome wire apart.
My system has 12v 7Amps capacity at each igniter.
When i use a 1,5V battery they light up fine it only has some delay. When i try it with 5-6V then they light up normally.
My problem is the 12V system.

I have tried BP and a KClO4/antimony trisulphide mix. They light up fine with lower voltages.
Don't have Chlorates to test.




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