
What type of glue you lot use for making tubes?
#1
Posted 14 June 2004 - 10:53 AM
#2
Posted 14 June 2004 - 12:13 PM
A nice strip of thick paper coated in PVA, rolled around a dowel and left to dry is very strong in my experience. I would aim for a tube thickness of 3-5mm for a good bang. (not that I have ever tried my PVA tubes, they are still sat in my room waiting.)
PVA is also very cheap, you should be able to get 5 litres for around 10-12 quid, and its widely available.
Marcus.
Edited by thewildething, 14 June 2004 - 12:14 PM.
#3
Posted 14 June 2004 - 12:49 PM
#4
Posted 14 June 2004 - 02:29 PM
#5
Posted 14 June 2004 - 03:57 PM


Edited by pyrotechnist, 14 June 2004 - 04:33 PM.
#6
Posted 14 June 2004 - 04:46 PM
I was considering getting a bucket of Extramite with my next Screwfix order, so I am very glad to hear that. It'll definately be on the list now. I wanted it originally as it seemed more like what "The Old Masters" would have used instead of PVA.If you're in the UK, try Extramite (used to be called Cascamite), available in hardware shops. It's a powdered resin that's mixed with water and it makes tubes that are ROCK HARD. PVA doesn't even approach this product if you do things properly.
Thin wallpaper paste is easy to roll with, as it can be brushed easily, doesn't stick tubes to the former, and excess paste will easily be "rolled off" the paper as you roll up the tube, so a nice tight tube results. Only problem is, on drying, it isn't that well bonded. If it is for a rocket or fountain, when the comp is rammed in place, it will sometimes drag the inner layers of paper down with it, the result being that the paper "spirals" into the tube.
Thick wallpaper paste will bond the paper strongly enough to solve this; instead the rammed comp simply slides past the tube walls without taking them with it. However, it is slower to brush on, and if you have excess paste on the paper it may get rolled in between the layers, making the tube spongier when it dries (this can be reduced by rolling it several times on the bench, preferably with a rolling board). Again, no problems with tubes sticking to formers.
In my experience, neat PVA gives the strongest tube, but is difficult to work with as it stick tubes to the former very easily, especially if it is made from wood
Recently, I have taken to using a mixture of thin wallpaper paste and PVA, probably about 1:4 (very cheap PVA). This is easy to spread, doesn't stick to the former, and gives a very hard tube.
PVA (or, apparantly, Extramite) and wallpaper paste both have their own applications. Wallpaper paste is really what is necessary for pasting shells, and is probably superior to PVA for this. Thin wallpaper paste also works very well for making cracker fuse, better than dextrin, IMO. On the other hand, PVA is much better for gluing plugs into tubes, and can be used to seal around fuses (though hot melt is better for this).
#7
Posted 14 June 2004 - 05:21 PM
#8
Posted 15 June 2004 - 10:08 AM


Edit: Ho and is it flammable or not?
Edited by pyrotechnist, 15 June 2004 - 10:08 AM.
#9
Posted 15 June 2004 - 02:51 PM
Normaly it is used for ehhhh construction....

It has a brownish color and expands when hardening.
It is quite expensive, but can be diluted with acetone, wich will give a nice flowing easy to apply substance.
Use gloves when applying it! if U get it on your hands it is impossible to remove.
#10
Posted 15 June 2004 - 11:50 PM
#11
Posted 16 June 2004 - 01:13 AM
I can't find it so i will have to buy big tin.
Edited by pyrotechnist, 16 June 2004 - 01:41 AM.
#12
Posted 22 September 2004 - 07:41 PM
#13
Posted 22 September 2004 - 09:48 PM
The method of saturating the papper is described in Shimizu's book for those that are interested.
Mark
BPA L1 & L2
#14
Guest_Daniel Scott_*
Posted 23 September 2004 - 11:49 PM
I did try and make some fireproof wheat paste by adding borax to it. My what a mistake! It gelled up and make a doughy mess.
#15
Posted 24 September 2004 - 04:06 PM
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users