Jump to content


Photo

Photographing fire.


  • Please log in to reply
62 replies to this topic

#16 Matt

Matt

    Another Aussie Trying To take Over

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 396 posts

Posted 28 October 2004 - 09:01 AM

one of the cameras i use has a certain function where you hold the button down and it just keeps on taking shots then when you release the button it saves the last 5 shots. eg. you launch a shell and hold the button down, after the shell has broken and the effect is gone, take your finger off the button.
Quite ingenious

-Matt
Try to run! try to hide! Break on through to the other side!! YYYEEEAAAAOOHHHHHHHHAAAAHHHHHHHH

#17 Creepin_pyro

Creepin_pyro

    Pyro Forum Top Trump

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,198 posts

Posted 28 October 2004 - 09:26 AM

There are various ways to do this. As you said, electronic triggering either with a delay or instantanious shutter release. A sound sensor to activate the shutter with the "whoompf" noise would work. I suppose a movement or infra-red sensor would work too. These can all be programmed for a delay. They use alot of these for high-speed/time lapse photography.

Imagine you want to capture a balloon popping, mid burst. Use an acoustic sensor to activate the shutter, and play with the delay until you get the precise timing.

I never thought about using the firing channel to release the shutter, I guess this would be the most accurate way to get the precise timing after the burst.

It would be interesting to capture an "average" burst, by using the channel firing method, setting the delay in small increments. You could compile a slow motion video, and if you control the explosions to make them as similair as possible, I think it would work quite well...

In reality, I stand there, shutter button half-pressed, waiting for the right moment :D I can capture three frames per second, so I'll take three in succession to increase the chance of catching the burst.

Edited by Creepin_pyro, 10 November 2004 - 10:26 PM.


#18 blueflame

blueflame

    Member

  • General Public Members
  • PipPip
  • 49 posts

Posted 28 October 2004 - 07:31 PM

hey creepin
i found this link you might find useful

http://photo2.si.edu/firew/firew.html

#19 Creepin_pyro

Creepin_pyro

    Pyro Forum Top Trump

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,198 posts

Posted 03 November 2004 - 11:36 PM

This is a squat piston mine. Enjoy :D

Mine

#20 Pretty green flames

Pretty green flames

    Pyro Forum Regular

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 689 posts

Posted 04 November 2004 - 05:34 AM

Can't seem to get to that movie.

"hotlinking not permited"

#21 Creepin_pyro

Creepin_pyro

    Pyro Forum Top Trump

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,198 posts

Posted 04 November 2004 - 08:47 AM

That's strange. I think it works fine now.

#22 Matt

Matt

    Another Aussie Trying To take Over

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 396 posts

Posted 04 November 2004 - 08:51 AM

I think i just came
Try to run! try to hide! Break on through to the other side!! YYYEEEAAAAOOHHHHHHHHAAAAHHHHHHHH

#23 alany

alany

    Pyro Forum Regular

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 740 posts

Posted 04 November 2004 - 11:05 AM

Open shutter pics of fireworks always look great!

I've been thinking of doing that in the future, especially for wheels.

What composition were those red stars?

#24 Pretty green flames

Pretty green flames

    Pyro Forum Regular

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 689 posts

Posted 04 November 2004 - 11:17 AM

..................................(No words can describe this) :rolleyes:

#25 Creepin_pyro

Creepin_pyro

    Pyro Forum Top Trump

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,198 posts

Posted 04 November 2004 - 11:18 AM

Yeah - always nice to get some trails :)

I would like to do the same again with a shorter exposure to show the tail better, and wash out the red less. In real life, they're a very deep red, and leave a big bushy trail of sparks.

The stars are the Strontium Nitrate/Titanium from AFN iv. I finaly got them working nicely. They really are amazing to watch - my favourite effect star so far.

#26 lord_dranack

lord_dranack

    Pyro Forum Regular

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 251 posts

Posted 04 November 2004 - 07:32 PM

Amazing photo!
I know its off topic, but could you possibly post the formula for those stars (perhaps in a more approprate thread?) ?

#27 blueflame

blueflame

    Member

  • General Public Members
  • PipPip
  • 49 posts

Posted 06 November 2004 - 07:01 PM

This is a squat piston mine.  Enjoy  :D

Mine

View Post


did you make that? its excellent .

#28 Creepin_pyro

Creepin_pyro

    Pyro Forum Top Trump

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,198 posts

Posted 08 November 2004 - 10:45 AM

Amazing photo!
I know its off topic, but could you possibly post the formula for those stars (perhaps in a more approprate thread?) ?

View Post


Formula posted in the Star Formulas thread :)

#29 lord_dranack

lord_dranack

    Pyro Forum Regular

  • General Public Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 251 posts

Posted 08 November 2004 - 04:43 PM

Formula posted in the Star Formulas thread smile.gif


Cheers!

#30 Guest_wwwsimondorncom_*

Guest_wwwsimondorncom_*
  • Guests

Posted 10 November 2004 - 06:30 PM

Most SLR cameras with film or digital will have a 'B' setting or bulb. That opens the shutter as long as it is pressed. If you have some control over the shutter speed then open it as long as possible to catch all the lovely trails. I like them pics best.
If you have a sparkler you can write your name in the air with the sparkler then at the last moment use a hand held flash and fire it at the subject to freeze them in the picture frame. To practise (and save sparklers) you could use a torch to write your name then flash the subject with a hand held flashgun.
Best to use a tripod and a cable release or else you will add unwanted movement to long exposures. If you dont have a cable release then set up the camera on a tripod or wall and open the shutter holding a black bit of card in front of the lens. Remove the card at the vital moment and return it when the effect has been captured. I hope this helps. :)




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users