My previous setup was hand held bulb on a cheap tripod, so hopefully my shots should improve as far as stability goes.I haven't tried the black card method yet, but plan to give it a go at the next commercial display I go to.
Photographing fire.
Started by Creepin_pyro, Oct 06 2004 01:31 PM
62 replies to this topic
#31
Creepin_pyro
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Posted 10 November 2004 - 11:11 PM
Thanks for the advice. I've just got a cable release to use in conjunction with my new Manfrotto My previous setup was hand held bulb on a cheap tripod, so hopefully my shots should improve as far as stability goes.
I haven't tried the black card method yet, but plan to give it a go at the next commercial display I go to.
My previous setup was hand held bulb on a cheap tripod, so hopefully my shots should improve as far as stability goes.I haven't tried the black card method yet, but plan to give it a go at the next commercial display I go to.
#32
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Posted 11 November 2004 - 06:05 AM
Another way to take perfect shots of trails on a long exposure with a bugdget setup is to set up the camera on a wall. Set the camera up to not use the flash if it has a built in one. There is an icon on the camera that looks like a spark in a circle with a line through it. Select this option and the flash wont fire. Also set your focussing to infinity if you can (the icon for infinity is like the number 8 on the lens usually) if you cant set the focussing dont worry most cameras will select it by default.
Get someone to light your ground based fountain mine or whatever. In the first initial stages the firework will go off producing some light. This is enough to fool the auto shutter speed and apature to thinking that the image has plenty of light. So to counteract that you need your good old bit of black card. With the black card hold it in front of the lens. Then when your firework gets to its best moment press the button on your camera. As you press the button lift the card. What will happen is the camera now thinks that this is a low light photograph so lets the shutter open for 2-5 seconds and the apature open to its widest setting. As you lift the card however the picture starts to record every spark fly with a lovely trail.
Most of these hand held cams dont have a very large apature so thats why you dont get very good pics from the cheap 'all singing all dancing' cams.
Another way to get the pictures looking great with hand held cams is to set the timer function to take the shot a few seconds after the shutter release has been pressed. That way when you press the button the picture is taken after your finger has left the camera. This avoids adding camera shake.
The Black card method also works with expensive SLR digital or film based cameras. Use the 'B' Setting and with the camera on a tripod lift the card to record something looking great and return the card again when not much is happening. That way you can record multiple bursts without suffering Reciprocity Failure.
Get someone to light your ground based fountain mine or whatever. In the first initial stages the firework will go off producing some light. This is enough to fool the auto shutter speed and apature to thinking that the image has plenty of light. So to counteract that you need your good old bit of black card. With the black card hold it in front of the lens. Then when your firework gets to its best moment press the button on your camera. As you press the button lift the card. What will happen is the camera now thinks that this is a low light photograph so lets the shutter open for 2-5 seconds and the apature open to its widest setting. As you lift the card however the picture starts to record every spark fly with a lovely trail.
Most of these hand held cams dont have a very large apature so thats why you dont get very good pics from the cheap 'all singing all dancing' cams.
Another way to get the pictures looking great with hand held cams is to set the timer function to take the shot a few seconds after the shutter release has been pressed. That way when you press the button the picture is taken after your finger has left the camera. This avoids adding camera shake.
The Black card method also works with expensive SLR digital or film based cameras. Use the 'B' Setting and with the camera on a tripod lift the card to record something looking great and return the card again when not much is happening. That way you can record multiple bursts without suffering Reciprocity Failure.
#33
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Posted 11 November 2004 - 09:09 AM
Perhaps you can tell me how to manual focus on infinity in the darkness (no markings on the lens) I'm having trouble working out the best way to do this.
#34
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Posted 11 November 2004 - 11:39 AM
You didnt say which camera...
If its an SLR then switch off the autofocus (M setting to on a/f off). Twist the lens focussing ring to focus on something far away. At night the moon will do! A house in the distance, whatever until it comes into focus. Infinity means everything from a few feet away to a dot on the horizon will be in focus. Either that or set the focus in your house while looking through the viewfinder.
Infinity can be found at one end of the focussing range. Either twisting the lens all the way round until it stops to the left or to the right. One will be macro or close up and the other will be infinity.
If it is a viewfinder camera then you can do the half press of the shutter release on something that is miles away. Problem is that usually when you press the button down it also samples the light for exposure. So the black card trick wont work. If its a digital camera then you should have some degree of control with it.
One point to add though. If you are using a digi camera and use the open shutter feature then be careful when you do aim it at REALLY bright things for extended periods of time. This can damage the CCD/CMOS sensor in the long run. Most applications will be ok though. Usually most digi cameras can handle it and this applies only to using the 'b' setting while using the camera during the day in direct sunlight or at the sun itself!
If its an SLR then switch off the autofocus (M setting to on a/f off). Twist the lens focussing ring to focus on something far away. At night the moon will do! A house in the distance, whatever until it comes into focus. Infinity means everything from a few feet away to a dot on the horizon will be in focus. Either that or set the focus in your house while looking through the viewfinder.
Infinity can be found at one end of the focussing range. Either twisting the lens all the way round until it stops to the left or to the right. One will be macro or close up and the other will be infinity.
If it is a viewfinder camera then you can do the half press of the shutter release on something that is miles away. Problem is that usually when you press the button down it also samples the light for exposure. So the black card trick wont work. If its a digital camera then you should have some degree of control with it.
One point to add though. If you are using a digi camera and use the open shutter feature then be careful when you do aim it at REALLY bright things for extended periods of time. This can damage the CCD/CMOS sensor in the long run. Most applications will be ok though. Usually most digi cameras can handle it and this applies only to using the 'b' setting while using the camera during the day in direct sunlight or at the sun itself!
#35
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Posted 12 November 2004 - 12:20 AM
The camera is a Canon 300D. Equipped with the cheap & 'orrible "kit" lens.
The problem is that the lens goes to infinity and beyond. I get my macro at one extreme focus, but the infinity mark is before the other extreme. As you suggested, I can auto focus on a bright object far away, but sometimes that isn't possible. One way to do it is to auto focus on infinity before I get out into the field, leave the camera on AF, then when it comes to shooting, turn the camera to manual to stop it from searching for focus again. This is rather annoying, though.
I think I need a nice new lens with proper marking
I recently saw some guy photographing welding close up with his new DSLR
Don't think that's a good idea, even at higher shutter speeds.
One thing I plan to do is mount the camera to a telescope with a sun filter. This is likely to take me a while....
The problem is that the lens goes to infinity and beyond. I get my macro at one extreme focus, but the infinity mark is before the other extreme. As you suggested, I can auto focus on a bright object far away, but sometimes that isn't possible. One way to do it is to auto focus on infinity before I get out into the field, leave the camera on AF, then when it comes to shooting, turn the camera to manual to stop it from searching for focus again. This is rather annoying, though.
I think I need a nice new lens with proper marking
I recently saw some guy photographing welding close up with his new DSLR
Don't think that's a good idea, even at higher shutter speeds.
One thing I plan to do is mount the camera to a telescope with a sun filter. This is likely to take me a while....
#36
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Posted 12 November 2004 - 05:22 AM
The 300d can take stock canon lenses right?
If this is the case go to cash converters and get an old manual focus lens for it. It will only set you back a tenner or so and then you can photograph fireworks all night... Get a nice 24mm to 80mm lens for that grab everything all rounder or get yourself a 17mm-30mm lens for your wide angle capture everything lens. I wouldnt go for anything longer than an 80mm lens as zooming in to sky bursts can be almost impossible when you dont know where they will burst in the sky.
Remember that digital cameras usually have to multiply the lens figure by 1.5 to give the accurate lens length (with SLR digi cameras) so a 20mm lens is really a 30mm lens on a digi camera. This is because the CCD/CMOS is usually smaller than 35mm.
I have 2 film cameras and 2 digital cameras. When I do weddings I will always take 2 cameras with me just in case one breaks down on me.
If this is the case go to cash converters and get an old manual focus lens for it. It will only set you back a tenner or so and then you can photograph fireworks all night... Get a nice 24mm to 80mm lens for that grab everything all rounder or get yourself a 17mm-30mm lens for your wide angle capture everything lens. I wouldnt go for anything longer than an 80mm lens as zooming in to sky bursts can be almost impossible when you dont know where they will burst in the sky.
Remember that digital cameras usually have to multiply the lens figure by 1.5 to give the accurate lens length (with SLR digi cameras) so a 20mm lens is really a 30mm lens on a digi camera. This is because the CCD/CMOS is usually smaller than 35mm.
I have 2 film cameras and 2 digital cameras. When I do weddings I will always take 2 cameras with me just in case one breaks down on me.
#37
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Posted 12 November 2004 - 08:21 AM
With regards to the 300D, even if a stock lens does not fit, there are adaptors available that are not expensive... Jessops does a range of these and they also do have second hand lenses in most of there stores if you want to shop for bargains. If you are not worried about make etc.. then look at Sigma lenses.. even new they are not very expensive and it is not like you need to rush off and buy a new lense every 5 minutes.
Hunt around on the web... there is a firmware upgrade for the 300D which will bring it very much in line with the 10D - This firmware updrade has had very good write ups in all top photography magazines as well.
Hunt around on the web... there is a firmware upgrade for the 300D which will bring it very much in line with the 10D - This firmware updrade has had very good write ups in all top photography magazines as well.
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#38
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Posted 16 November 2004 - 11:44 PM
I was wondering if someone may be able to help me!
I have a FujiFilm FInepix A340 Digital Camera and planned on using the 'movie' function to video my 1st proper fountain.
I lit the fountain then filmed it burning and it just looks crap compared to it in real life. Is this because of the resolution of the camera? The camera is a 4 mega pixel camera but in Video mode it says '320x240' is there any thing i could do to make it better quality?
I have a FujiFilm FInepix A340 Digital Camera and planned on using the 'movie' function to video my 1st proper fountain.
I lit the fountain then filmed it burning and it just looks crap compared to it in real life. Is this because of the resolution of the camera? The camera is a 4 mega pixel camera but in Video mode it says '320x240' is there any thing i could do to make it better quality?
Broadsword Calling DannyBoy....
#39
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Posted 16 November 2004 - 11:47 PM
Digital still cameras usually have a relatively poor movie quality. What is the frame rate?
#40
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Posted 16 November 2004 - 11:50 PM
Im not sure! Maybe this site will help..Finepix A340
Broadsword Calling DannyBoy....
#41
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Posted 16 November 2004 - 11:56 PM
10 frames per second is never going to look very good 
There isn't much you can do to make it look any better. Try getting some photos next time...
There isn't much you can do to make it look any better. Try getting some photos next time...
#42
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Posted 17 November 2004 - 12:17 AM
ok, thanks! I do have a Video recorder but i have no way of transfering the analogue data to digital!
Broadsword Calling DannyBoy....
#43
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Posted 17 November 2004 - 09:36 AM
You can buy a cheap capture card for that. It's not too hard to transfer analogue to digital. You just need the card and some leads.
#44
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Posted 17 November 2004 - 10:31 AM
Would this one from PC world be OK, Obvoiusly i wouldnt go there because i have a local PC 'Chappy' 
Leadtek Winfast VC100 PCI Capture Card
Leadtek Winfast VC100 PCI Capture Card
Broadsword Calling DannyBoy....
#45
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Posted 17 November 2004 - 11:07 AM
That one looks fine. Just make sure that you will be able to conect it to the camera. There are lots of leads and adapters that will help you do this.
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