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Photographing fire.


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#46 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 03:39 PM

With regards to the 300D, even if a stock lens does not fit, there are adaptors available that are not expensive... Jessops does a range of these and they also do have second hand lenses in most of there stores if you want to shop for bargains. If you are not worried about make etc.. then look at Sigma lenses.. even new they are not very expensive and it is not like you need to rush off and buy a new lense every 5 minutes.
Hunt around on the web... there is a firmware upgrade for the 300D which will bring it very much in line with the 10D - This firmware updrade has had very good write ups in all top photography magazines as well.

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I'm having trouble finding any second hand lenses. I've tried all the shops near me, and they have nothing vaguely suitable. Can anyone reccomend an online 2nd hand photo store? I think I may just go for a Sigma 17-30mm, but that's still alot of money. If only I could afford the Canon 17-40L :blush:

I don't see any need for the wasia hack just yet. I don't think the MLU would make any difference unless I'm trying to shoot the moon at 500mm (I'd be interested if anyone thinks otherwise) , and I'm not tempted by ISO3200 :rolleyes:

#47 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 24 November 2004 - 09:40 AM

oops. I'll sort this out later.

Edited by Creepin_pyro, 24 November 2004 - 11:08 AM.


#48 alany

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Posted 27 November 2004 - 04:57 PM

Check out these Senko Hanabi pictures I just took:

http://www.vk2zay.ne...vice.php?id=190

#49 Richard H

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Posted 27 November 2004 - 05:14 PM

Wow, that looks beautiful. Got any tips for making Senko Hanabi? I gather it is tricky to get right, but it's such a wonderful effect when it works! I have some Senko Hanabi 'sparklers', which you light the tip of and a smouldering bead of composition forms, which consumes the material further down and ejects wonderful branching sparks from the molten mass.

#50 alany

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Posted 27 November 2004 - 05:59 PM

I've only been fooling with it for a week or so now, but the charcoal is the critical element. I've tried every kind of charcoal I have available, pine works the best so far. I haven't tried all my lampblacks yet, gotta try the conductive one and the printers ink variety.

I'd love a source of pine soot, it is ment to be *the* charcoal for making Senko Hanabi.

Check out the D1 Glitter I just did:

http://www.vk2zay.ne...vice.php?id=191

It is much more difficult to photograph well, it is very bright, smokey and the source moves with a big orange flame envelope. I might try igniting a small pile with a hot-wire, that would cloud the picture less I think.

#51 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 01:15 PM

Great work, Alan :)

I did some long exposures of standard sparklers which are boring in comparison to these. Not nearly as much branching going on... Interesting to see how your camera interprets the colours of the spark trails, and those blue glitter sparks :D

It seems that the yellowness of the Senko Hanabi sparks are a little closer to reality... is this right? I've never seen one before.

Here's a few interesting exposures:

Methanol

Boric acid

And the joys of waving a flaming staff around in the darkness :P

#52 alany

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Posted 30 November 2004 - 10:28 AM

Try it out, I didn't have any problems getting it to "work", but getting it to work well is a challenge.

I am going to do some high carbon sparkler steel experiments tonight, I'll post the results.

I've also got a whole bunch of pictures of Senko Hanabi with different charcoals to write up. I noticed that my page it top hit in Google when you search for "Senko Hanabi" (pretty amazing for only a week or two online!), so I better put up some *real* content to justify that ranking. :)

Both Acetylene black and vegetable black *suck* in Senko Hanabi. They don't even make sparks in most cases. The charcoal I expected to be the worst actually worked the best, but it was picky about the exact amount used in the twist of paper, it produced a very fluid droplet that had troubles forming. Some of the hotter charcoals make the composition burn so fast it tends to blow the droplet off the paper before it forms properly.

The colour is pretty right, a bright yellow/orange is what I percieve the sparks to be. The sulfide melt droplet glows with a bright red-orange, a colour temperature of about 850-900 C I'd guess. The sparks burn hotter as they move through the air, probably at least 1200 C. It would be interesting to try measuring the temperature with an optical pyrometer.

Have you tried Lithium Chloride for red in the Methanol?

#53 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 03 December 2004 - 02:38 PM

Try it out, I didn't have any problems getting it to "work", but getting it to work well is a challenge.

I am going to do some high carbon sparkler steel experiments tonight, I'll post the results.

Have you tried Lithium Chloride for red in the Methanol?

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I'll try the Senko Hanabi out as soon as I get some different charcoals. Looking forward to seeing those high-carbon sparklers :D Should get some lovely branches from that stuff.

I have tried Lithium Chloride. Dissapointing for staff work, but good for static flame effects. The flame gets too small when it gets waved around - even smaller than Methyl Borate.

Last time I tried it, the staff had been recently saturated with paraffin, and Methyl Borate, and not washed inbetween dippings. This leads to a funky multi-colour effect - red, blue, yellow and green flames all battling against each other :P

Nice pics - I'll get them online soon.

#54 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 12:47 AM

Here are a few :)

Staff spinning...

multi-colour flames

#55 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 09 January 2005 - 02:10 PM

I just had to share these:

It's a saxon!

and the second stage.

Hope ya like them.

Edited by Creepin_pyro, 09 January 2005 - 07:38 PM.


#56 alany

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Posted 09 January 2005 - 02:26 PM

I like the first stage best, what composition was it? The white sparks seem to fragment quite often near their ends.

(I usually put the brightest effects last, it works better with human vision.)

#57 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 09 January 2005 - 02:38 PM

Oops. I got them the wrong way round....

I know what you mean about the vision thing.... having a subtle charcoal/iron effect straight after a Titanium effect is not a good idea.

Nothing special about the compositions, just meal with metals and 80mesh charcoal thrown in. Titanium, Magnalium, Iron, and mixed flake Al were all used, leaving the Titanium for the second stage (this was a reversing saxon) I'm not sure of the specifications of the Titanium, but it loves to branch and crackle :D

There is a hint of a red lance in the Titanium section, but it quickly snuffed itself out :(

#58 PyroKid

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Posted 09 January 2005 - 05:37 PM

I have got to agree with alany here stating the fact that the first stage is the better of the two
Who said there wasnt fireworks between us?

#59 Creepin_pyro

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Posted 07 March 2005 - 11:32 AM

Just thought I'd share this photo:

microstar fountains :D

#60 broadsword

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Posted 07 March 2005 - 01:10 PM

WOW! That looks really good!
How are long Exposure photos taken?
Broadsword Calling DannyBoy....




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