635 replies to this topic

[BigG]

Too late! Lost some fingers!

Stuart, I don't think it's a funny matter at all. Do you ball mill your chlorate bp?!?!

BigG

[Stuart]

Uh, dont know if that was a serious question so I will just hope you dont think I would be stupid enough

[BigG]

Uh, dont know if that was a serious question so I will just hope you dont think I would be stupid enough

No offence intended. Some of us are just beginners and they might not understand the denger involved....

BigG

P.S. We are here to guide!!!

[Stuart]

Ok, sorry I wasnt very clear. I welcome help

[Phoenix]

Pyrotechnist said (in topic, "Milling Media"):

Were do you lot get your motors from for the ball mills. And wats the name of the place were you get from thanks.

I got mine from a rubbish dump type scrap yard place. It cost about ?1.50 or something. I cringe when people say they have bought a motor for ?50 or more. Really, just go to your local dump (they often call them "Public Amenity Sites," but we know what they mean ) and whoever runs it will be more than happy to take a small amount of your cash in exchange for a motor. Look for one off a fan or washing machine, as these will be continuously rated, rather than something like a drill motor, which is only meant for short periods of use. Also, try to get an induction motor, as these have no brushes, so do not spark.

If you don't have access to a rubbish dump, then still don't buy a brand new motor. Go to your local charity shop or somewhere else that sells second hand stuff and buy a something with a continuously rated motor. A fan is the only thing I can think of at present, but see what there is there and decide for yourself whether it is designed for continuous use...

Using a second hand motor like this does perhaps require more skill and attention to safety than a bought one, which may already have a plug fitted, but even if you are not confidant in wiring it yourself you probably know someone who could help you. Just be sure to earth it and use a circuit braker, both of which are common sense really :-)

[BurlHorse]

Might I suggest E-Bay as a place to obtain motors, Thats where I have bought all of mine, always a deal to be had and alot of them are from over there (The UK). Do a search on Motors, or electric motors, Etc. I just got one last week, a 2 horsepower Bodine, 115 Volts, 1745 RPM, Totally enclosed, Explosion proof 5/8th" shaft with a 5/16ths Key I believe it was, any way, I got it in the "11th Hour" for a steal, 47.00 USD, and It's Brand New, Right outta the box. It looks Great, Has about 15 cooling fins (Cast) about an inch out from the body of the motor. This is to be My next Ball Mill motor, anyway, it weighs 55 lbs, so the shipping was up there, but I just thought I's pass this on. I figure with 2 horses to work with, and proper pulleys or I might even splurge and gear the darn thing, I should be good for 60 pounds plus loads without a strain on anything! I will indeed submit pictures when it's finished......oh, and by the way, for those of you comptemplating building a mill, theres alot of chatter about pillow blocks or bearings, well, in my travels yesterday I happened into a thrift shop, and what did I spy, but a four pack of Ball bearing wheels for the Razor scooters, how cool that the have 1/2 inch diameter centers, so much for Grainger catalog, I think these will work fine for bearings, I have some 2.5 inch pipe clamps, you know the kind you attach Pipes to the walls with, U clamps I think they are called, well 2 of them fit around the wheels perfectly.......Ah I love it when a plan comes together.......Stay Tuned....hehe

Regards to all and Stay Green, Especially you who Ball Mills H-3/ Chlorate BP as you call it....

I'm with Bernie on that one......

Bear

[PanMaster]

Also, try to get an induction motor, as these have no brushes, so do not spark.

What the?! An induction motor is simply a motor without permanent magnets that uses electromagnets instead and induces a current to get it going by cutting the inner coils. They have brushes naturally as they have a communator that rotates, thus they spark like mad, just look through the vents in a drill. If you intend to buy a motor that you can rely on, forget it, properly built motors cost over ?500.

Edited by PanMaster, 19 January 2004 - 04:55 PM.

[Stuart]

Either way if you just make sure your container is fairly air tight you will be OK. No point wasting your time and money on a motor that dont spark when you can just get a jar that is air tight. Or if you get a permanant magnet one then it will have a whole case so there isnt much chance of a spark getting out

Stuart

[Phoenix]

Panmaster said,

What the?! An induction motor is simply a motor without permanent magnets that uses electromagnets instead and induces a current to get it going by cutting the inner coils.

Oh, sorry. I've heard non-sparking, brushless motors referred to as "induction motors" before, but never really looked into it. Whatever my motor is by definition, it doesn't have brushes. There is nothing electrical on the rotating part, just a big cylindrical magnet with two coils surrounding it. (what is this type of motor called, BTW)

Stuart said,

Either way if you just make sure your container is fairly air tight you will be OK

Do you mean the mill jar or the motor housing? The motor I used (and I think most motors) is designed to have free airflow around it to cool it. I wouldn't want to cut this off. However, having a completely non sparking motor is just an extra precaution really, as the mill jar doesn't (and shouldn't) leak.

[Stuart]

I do mean the milling jar.

Stuart

[pyrodude]

hiya,
just wondering whether to use a plastic or a rubber barrel for a mill has anyone got any suggestions???

[The_Djinn]

Pyrodude,
I am using a rubber barrel and have had no issues, less noise with lead media as you will see from various other posts.

Mark

[dfk]

Has any one tried, thought or herd of using a concreate mixer as a mill, or possibly a star roller?
I was just thinking about this because I was looking through the paper the other day and saw one for like 50 bucks.
seems suitable, being made to run for a while with heavy loads. I know the barrels are made of steel witch could make a realy nice b**b if not rebuilt but it seems like there would be ways to work around this. There are rubber spark aresting types of paints that might be useable or maybe some "Rhino Line" could be thrown up in there wich would give it some "rib" effect as well.
Maybe someone could tell me why this should or shouldn't be persued.
Thanks

Marcus

[Stuart]

If the container is steel and your worried about a spark, wouldnt earthing it solve problems. You can get special earthing rods from amateur radio stores or you could get a long copper rod and ram it a meter or so into the ground

Stuart

Edited by Stuart, 25 January 2004 - 07:37 AM.

[BurlHorse]

We bought a cement mixer, from a local DIY home store, took the vanes out, epoxyed the remaing holes and made no other "Improvements....I can say that Tim Wellman and I have rolled a Magazine worth of stars in the original Yes, Steel Barrel (Your rolling wet....)and have had no problems, except where to dry all them pretty stars.

Another trick you may want to consider is that a drywall bucket fits inside the mixers barrel, with a few fingers space to spare. If you Modify the drywall bucket.....Oh alright, here goes, PVC PiPe, 1", Cut it in half, From the outside of the bucket, using brass screws and washers, put the the half-round sawn off pieces of pipe inside the bucket, Screw through the drywall bucket and into the PVC pipe, rounded edge toward the middle of the bucket.

Put 4 of these "Lifter Bars" in the bucket, secured with at least 4 screws each, and silicone.... The good stuff (RTV or GE II Clear) under the washers where the washer make contact with the outside of the bucket...No Leaks., Finally on the inside, cut some pvc scraps and cover the openings in the half-rounded pipe, use Good ol, Oatley PVC Glue to seal the opens in the end of the lifter bars. now the fun part, Head on down to your local bycycle shop or Wahl-Mart or where ever you can find small BMX type bike tires, find the size that will fit the tire to the bucket like a tire to a car, get two. Push these onto the outside of the bucket and use the same silicone to run a bead all the way around the tubes where they make contact with the bucket, top and bottom of each tire and do the same to both of them. Let this whole thing dry in a warm place a day or two. Assuming that you were on the ball and got the drywall bucket with a rubber seal in the lid you are set to mill away, Fill bucket 1/4 to 1/3 ful with Media to Taste, Egg shaped lead sinkiners in the 3 to 6 OZ range are perfect. Fill bucket to 2/3rds full with whatever you need milled, Thinking saftey here, Close the top on, a quick wrap or two of duct tape around the lid as a safety precation if you feel the need.....AND......... Place your new ballmill in the modified cement mixer, power it up from a distance away, and there you go, the bucket rides on the tires, inside the Cement mixer, modified as above, and in 3 hours, you'll be fine as dust and have a batch size of up to 25 lbs. Ta Da, Easier than the jitterbug I assure you, and we have been doing it like this for 8 years now with never a mishap, of couse proper satey is required, Point the open of the mixer away from life, property and anything else you can think of, Use a good Extension Cord and check the results og you projrct Now and agin,

Goog Luck, Gat Grren

BEar